The edges of the outer box get a decorative inlay. Before you balk at the apparent difficulty of inlaying a contrasting wood on the edges of your box be assured that this is nothing more than a strip of wood inserted in a rabbet that is as deep as it is wide. Cut the rabbets on the tablesaw and fill them with more black walnut. Start with the top and bottom inlay pieces, mitring the corners as you go. Adhere the walnut strips with PVA glue and clamp in position with masking tape. When the top and bottom edges are done fill in the corner edges. Once the glue is dry use a block plane with a very fine mouth to plane the inlay strips flush.
When the outer box is finished cut the lid off using a tablesaw. Once the lid is separated from the box, smooth the cut edges with a scraper.
The Cedar Lining
humidor Use polyurethane glue to edge-join the 3"-wide strips of Spanish cedar together to get wide enough blanks for the inner lining. After planing the glued-up blanks smooth, proceed with cutting the lining pieces to size. The entire box lining is pressure-fit except for the last two short pieces. These get a bit of glue along their bottom edges. Pressure fitting the lining allows the sides to move with changes in humidity. Fit the bottom first, then the long sides and finally the short sides. Leave the top edge 1/4" proud to act as the seal with the top of the box. Use a plane to take a bit off the top edge allowing the box to close without restriction.
Finishing touches
With the lid placed onto the box, mark the positions of the hinges. Drill out the pockets required for the quadrant hinges' travel arms and pare to final shape using a sharp chisel.
To dress the box use a smoothing plane set very fine to take off any high spots. Finally, install the humidifying puck and hygrometer which distinguishes the box as a humidor.
Finish the humidor with three coats of rubbed-out polyurethane, sanding with 600-grit wet/dry sandpaper between coats. Follow the poly with a coat of wax over the entire box.
I can't wait until I find my next piece of spalted maple. That will be cause for celebration--maybe even a good cigar!
Spalted Maple
If you've ever cut and split maple firewood from less-than-vibrant trees, spalting isn't new to you. It's one of the first stages of wood decay, but if the process is arrested early enough the random pattern of dark brown squiggles left by the spalting moulds can be quite striking, and the wood will still be structurally sound. Many woods can develop spalting if exposed to the right conditions during storage, but maple is especially prone to it because it's rich in natural sugars and low in tannins that restrict microbial activity. Although spalted lumber is often the product of accidental neglect, the effect can be created intentionally. Spalting moulds are everywhere and thrive best under conditions ranging from 20% to 28% moisture content and a temperature range of 10C to 32C.
To spalt small pieces of maple, soak them in water, place the wood in a tightly-sealed plastic bag, then stash the bundle in a dark place that's about 20C. Periodically check on the progress of the microbes and dry the lumber when several passes with a sharp hand plane reveals the look you're after. --Steve Maxwell
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