Make a jewelry box

Joint one side of each of the yellowheart boards to create flat surfaces, then plane them down to the thicknesses listed. Next, joint the padauk on both faces and one edge, then head to the bandsaw to resaw the board into two pieces. Plane the resulting halves down to about 3/8" thick. I suggest you make a sample groove with your dado blade to use as a thickness gauge, allowing you to plane down to the exact thickness required for a good fit of the sides into the leg grooves.

With all your wood roughed out, rip the boards 1/8" wider than listed, then clean the edges up on the jointer to bring them down to final size.

I recommend you prepare the legs from one board for both safety and efficiency. Start by milling a 3/8"-wide groove along the length of your wood, using a dado blade tilted 45º from vertical in your tablesaw. Orient the wood so the surface that will become the inside face of the leg rides against the fence. Repeat the process so there's an angled groove on both sides of each leg. These grooves will form the joints that create the corners of the jewelry box. With both grooves complete, cut the legs to length.

Shape the curve of the leg using a bandsaw, then sand the cut surfaces using a belt sander. If you don't own a stationary sander, no problem. Simply invert a portable model and clamp it to your workbench.

Next, scribe a line along the curved portion of the leg 1/4" in from the edge on both the sides and faces of the leg. Then cut off the corner on the bandsaw with the table tilted to a 45º angle. Sand these newly created facets on the belt sander as well.

While you're still near the bandsaw, cut a small scallop out of the back edges of the bottoms of the legs. This creates a visual transition from the bottom of the box to the surface it sits on.

Next, cut the padauk that forms the front, back and sides of the jewelry box. As you work, saw pieces from the board in sequence to ensure the grain is visually consistent as it runs around the corners of the box.

Saw some support cleats for the bottom of the box from padauk and plane them to 3/8" square. You'll need more padauk for the dividers, planed down to 1/4" thick. Cut half-lap joints to connect the long and short divider pieces using a dado blade and a mitre gauge. It's essential you place a piece of scrap wood behind the dividers as you work to prevent splintering as you saw the half-laps.