Pattern routing
Next comes a technique called "pattern routing." Use a flush-trim bit in a table-mounted router to transfer the shape of the pattern precisely to the slightly oversized shape of the solid wood back it's attached to. The plans show how to adjust the height of the bit so the bearing rides only on the edge of the pattern. The flush-trimming cutters mill off any excess wood that sticks out beyond this pattern. It's a terrific system, producing finish-ready edges in minutes with no need for sanding.
The only hitch to pattern routing is the wavy shape of the back piece. Alternating grain direction can lead to tearout and chips, but you can get around that problem.
Depending on the temperament of your wood, you may need two flush-trimming router bits for smooth results. One needs to have the bearing on the bit's shaft, and is used with the pattern positioned underneath the back piece, sliding on the router table. This arrangement allows you to cut half of the wavy edges with the grain direction. Next, swap the bit for one with the bearing on the tip. Flip your workpiece over so the pattern is on top. You can now trim the curves you missed earlier, and you'll still be travelling in the same direction as the grain.
Decorative cutouts
While the plywood pattern is still mounted to the back piece, use a 1 1/8" Forstner bit to mark the centre of the eight holes you need to drill for the whirling wheel cutouts. The Forstner bit is ideal because it leaves smooth sides, which reduces sanding time later. To cut the outline of the whirling shapes, use a scrollsaw. Take your time and you'll get a cleaner cut. See the plans for guidance.
The box hangs from a diamond-shaped hole; cutting one involves a few steps. Start by using a 3/8"-dia. bit to bore into what will be the centre of the hole. Next, drill four additional holes at the corners of your diamond cutout using a 5/64"-dia. bit. Beyond removing additional waste wood, these holes will act as guides for the sharp chisel and flat file you'll need to complete the hole.
Carry on with the rest of the project by cutting out the box's bottom, top and sides. The plans show how to obtain the angles on the top edges of the sides.
Sanding comes next. I used a random-orbit sander for the faces and a stationary belt sander on the edges. As you work, use a light touch to smooth the wood without affecting the shape of the part. You'll find a sanding drum on a drillpress will work wonders inside the curved cutouts, and an emery board will let you get right into the pointed corners.
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