The soft glow from these tea-light lanterns will bring an intimate atmosphere to your next after-dusk get-together. I chose to build them using purpleheart because I?had the outdoor setting of a deck or patio in mind, but there's no reason why they can't contribute to the ambience of your home indoors as well. I've come up with two distinctive styles for you to choose from—make one of each for a complete set. The construction is similar for both designs; only the geometry and a few of the dimensions differ, so building both styles is easy.
These lanterns make a great weekend project. They aren't difficult to build and require a small quantity of materials. Purpleheart is a durable South American hardwood that naturally resists weathering. But that's not what first attracted me to this unique species. It was the stunning grain pattern and vibrant violet colour. If you prefer something less exotic, choose white oak, cedar, redwood or South American mahogany—all excellent choices for the outdoors.
* Click here for a detailed illustration.
| You will need | ||
| For each square lantern | Size (TxWxL*) | Qty |
| Stiles | 1/2" x 3/4" x 8" | 8 |
| Tails | 1/2" x 3/4" x 5" | 8 |
| Lid | 3/4" x 6" x 6" | 1 |
| Base | 1/2" x 6" x 6" | 1 |
| Alignment blocks | 1/2" x 4" x 4" | 2 |
| Glass panels | 1/8" x 4" x 7" | 4 |
| For each hexagonal lantern | ||
| Stiles | 1/2" x 3/4" x 8" | 12 |
| Tails | 1/2" x 3/4" x 3 1/2" | 12 |
| Lid | 3/4" x 7 1/16" x 8 3/16" | 1 |
| Base | 1/2" x 7 1/16" x 8 3/16" | 1 |
| Alignment blocks | 1/2" x 5 1/16" x 5 7/8" | 2 |
| Glass panels | 1/8" x 2 1/2" x 7" | 6 |
| *Length indicates grain direction. All wooden parts made of purpleheart | ||
I used a weatherproof Type II PVA adhesive to assemble the lanterns because it stands up well in wet conditions. To give the flickering flames a bit more flair, I found some translucent art glass for the side panels; you can find it at most stained-glass suppliers. There's a wide variety of colours and textures to choose from.
Side story
I began construction by making the framed side panels. Each consists of a pair of horizontal rails and vertical stiles connected with half-lap joints. The back faces of the panels are rabbetted to receive panes of glass.
It's much easier to prepare the half-lap joints before the stiles and rails are cut to width. The wood is larger this way and thus easier to handle safely. Begin by dressing wide boards to a 1/2" thickness, then prepare blanks that are equal in length to the rail and stile measurements given in the materials list. When you calculate the number of blanks required to yield all the frame parts, don't forget to factor in a generous allowance for the saw cuts.
Next, cut a block of wood from 3/4"-thick scrap that you will use to make a simple jig to keep the sides' sizes consistent. Make the block 8" long and the width of the openings in the centre of the frames-31/2" for the square lanterns and 2" for the six-sided version.
Install a dado blade in your tablesaw and mill 1/4"-deep x 1/2"-wide rabbets across the ends of the long stile blanks and 1/2"-deep x 3/4"-wide rabbets on the ends of the stubby rail blanks. You also need to mill 1/4"-deep x 3/4"-wide rabbets on the ends of the jig blocks that you prepared in the previous step.
Switch to a standard combination blade and slice off the rails and stiles by ripping 3/4"-wide strips from the blanks. After the parts are cut, reinstall your dado blade one more time and prepare a 1/4"-deep x 1/4"-wide rabbet on the inside edge of each frame member to accommodate the glass.
Whenever you're working on small parts like these, use a pushstick. It's essential for keeping your fingers safe.
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