To square up the laminated leg stock use a jointer to mill two adjoining faces 90' to each other, then rip the stock slightly oversized and plane it to 1 1/2" x 1 1/2". The angle on the top of each leg can be made with a compound mitre saw or tablesaw set to cut 18' from square in both vertical and horizontal planes.
Building the roof
Square up the stock for the peak block as you did the legs, then cut the bottom end square. To make the angles on the top, tilt your compound mitre saw or tablesaw blade 30' from square, then make repeated cuts around the end, rotating 90' for each. This will form the point you need. The 3/8"-deep x 3/8"-wide channel around the perimeter of the peak block is made to accept the top of the copper panels that form the roof. Use a tablesaw (with blade still set 30' from square) to cut a series of overlapping kerfs starting 2 3/8" from the block's bottom end until you have the width you need. Cut the rafter support blocks and glue one to each side of the peak block, bottom ends flush.
Image at left: A standard outdoor fixture is mounted to the roof. Simply cut the receptacle end off an outdoor extension cord for a power supply.Next come the rafters. Cut your stock to size, then prepare a 1/2"-deep saw kerf on each edge before trimming both ends of each rafter to a 60' bevel. Once the glue on the rafter support blocks has cured, you can attach the rafters. Glue the end of each rafter to the top surface of the support block and fasten with 2" finishing nails into predrilled holes. I sat the peak block on a 4 x 4 to hold it high enough to lift the rafter tails above my bench. Now, find a spot for the delicate roof assembly to dry undisturbed.
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