At this stage, either side of each frame could face in or out. The choice is still yours. Decide which faces look best, then rout the opposite ones with a 3⁄8" rabbeting bit all around the perimeter. (This side will be the inside of the frame.) The 5⁄16"-deep x 3⁄8"-wide rabbet will accommodate the acrylic panels you’ll add to the frames later.
Prepare the legs, which you will glue to the assembled frames. Cut five legs in all, each 11⁄2" thick and 32" long. I used 8⁄4 cedar (a full 2" thick when rough) for this job, but you could glue up thinner wood if need be.
Trim both edges of the assembled centre frame to a 45º angle on your tablesaw, then fasten one front leg to each edge using #20 biscuits and glue. Continue by joining the other legs and panels in the same way.
Frame it up
The top frame comes next. It’s made of five pieces of cedar, arranged into a frame joined with #20 biscuits at the mating edges. Start making the back corner by gluing the top frame right and left side pieces together so they form a 90º angle.
The side top frame pieces run parallel to the back two, but you need to cut 45º mitres on their front ends before attaching them. Then add the front top frame piece to finish. You need to end up with a frame that’s the same size and shape as shown in the plans, with notched corners. Don’t move to the next part of the project until you get the top frame right.
Bottom to top
The bottom of the cabinet is made from 5⁄8" exterior plywood. Although it is a rough construction material, I chose it because it’s water-resistant. The completed polygon top frame makes a great template for the bottom. Both need to be exactly the same size and shape. Trace the top frame onto the ply, then cut the shape.
Consider giving the bottom a little attention with a belt sander before you install it. Not only did I sand it, later on I also covered mine with a 1⁄4"-thick slice of cedar, which I cut on my bandsaw.
Attach the top frame to the bottom with the leg-and-frame assemblies, using #20 biscuits. As you work, ensure that the top frame sits 1⁄16" below the top edge of the assemblies. This makes for a tighter fit when you screw down the top from the inside later.
Prepare the top of the project now. Remember to orient the grain of the top so it runs parallel to the front edge of the island. Rout the edges to smooth away the sharpness by adding a chamfer. These details look good, reduce damage to the deck island and save you from bumps during use.
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