When I started talking about this chair project, it seemed simple enough: build a unique Muskoka chair. Then the idea grew, and what I ended up with was something extraordinary. It’s a rocking Muskoka chair that folds and is made from composite wood! How’s that for an imaginative project design?
With all the parts that make up this project, and the requirement for accuracy, it’s a good idea to use template routing to produce the parts. You not only get perfectly matched parts, but the templates can be used over and over to build more chairs. As friends and neighbours start requesting chairs of their own, the initial time invested in making the templates really pays off. Use the plans as reference when building the project, but the most helpful items are the rocking Muskoka chair templates.
Download the illustrated rocking Muskoka chair plans here!
Shopping list:
Lumber: 48' @ 5/4" x 6" decking
Threaded 5/16"-diameter rod: 2 @ 24"
3/4"-diameter copper pipe: 2 @ 24"
5/16"-diameter lock nuts: 6
Washers: 10 @ 7/8" outside diameter
Hinges: 10 @ 3/4" Roto-Hinges (LV #00S01.05)
Template time
Because it’s best to make all the parts from templates, I haven’t provided a traditional materials list. However, you can use the shopping list above for gathering what you need.
To start, you need to make all the templates. Take your time, since accurate parts are key. I like to use a sheet of 1⁄4"-thick hardboard for this process, and mark out a grid of 1" squares to aid in drawing the shapes. Hardboard cuts and shapes easily, and at 1⁄4" thick, it’s perfect for guiding the travel of a bearing-guided flush-trim bit for pattern routing.
Use the drawings to draw each template, as well as any hole locations. While you are at it, write technical notes (for example, “drill 3⁄4" hole on inside face”) right on the template. These notes make things easier if you decide to build more chairs later. Cut the templates slightly oversize with a jigsaw or bandsaw, and then sand up to the layout lines. Finish by marking and drilling any required holes.
Once your templates are all cut, it’s time to put them to use. With your boards lying flat, position the templates on top to get the most yield from your lumber. Use 5⁄8" brad nails to fasten the templates securely to your stock, then rough-cut the chair parts. Cut as many of the straight parts as you can to width and length on the tablesaw, cutting curved areas with a jigsaw. As you work, stay a safe distance away from the template edges—about 1⁄16".
10 Comments
Where are the templates?
They are linked from the second paragraph: rocking Muskoka chair templates.
I wish the template would have been more precise on the locations of the holes to be drilled. I have cut all of my pieces BUT I find that the locations of these holes are really close to the edges. Can someone help with out with this please.
The back 3/4 inch pipe says to cut to 18&1/4, but the lower back rest is 20 inches, so the shorter piece does not appear to work.Has anybody else encountered this?
What is the weight of the finnished chair? Thanks Keith
I would guess about 35 to 40 lbs.
I printed the templates but did not get the grid. How can I print both the templates and the grid???
I thought the problem was with my printer, but I see I am not the only one who did not get a grid printed with the templates. Perhaps the drawings should have been laid out over two pages, as the numbers are very small.
What scale of grid is being used? 1"? Did anyone figure out how to print both template and grid?
I found when I enlarged the images and printed then I got the grid. Only problem is I had to isolate the pieces and then print them. Depending on your computer or printing program I got the whole project onto about 6 pages including the grid with each.