Start work with the handles. Using a jigsaw or bandsaw, cut out the profile at both ends of the handles, as shown in the plans, then use a random orbit sander or spokeshave to create the round handle grips. You'll find it easiest to build the cart's frame within the handles as they sit on your workbench. Prepare the front legs, leg cross supports and leg cross brace now, but before you cut the wheel legs, think about wheels for a minute. If you'll be using anything other than 24" wheels, you'll need to adjust the length of the wheel legs so the cart stands flat at rest. But if your garden is rough or large, consider the terrain-taming value of mountain bike wheels, instead. The wide, inflatable tires make it much easier to roll along with minimal effort. You'll have to rig up an appropriate axle system that differs from the one I used, but it's worth considering in some cases.
The leg cross brace extends from the front leg cross support to the back one, and these three parts can be joined with a pair of 3/8" dia. x 1 1/2" fluted dowels or #20 biscuits. Just remember to drill a 3/4"-deep pocket in the leg cross brace to support the bottom of your umbrella shaft before you do. My umbrella came with a plastic bushing, 1 1/2" dia., that I fit into a hole bored in the top of the cart.
The umbrella shaft slides down through the bushing, and into the support pocket down below. Begin assembly by bolting all four legs to the handles as shown, then assemble the leg cross supports and leg cross brace into an H-shaped arrangement before securing the unit to the legs with #10 x 3 1/2" screws.
The 5 1/2"-wide box boards create the cart's work surface, and now's the time to fasten them to the top edges of the handles using #8 x 1 1/2" corrosion-resistant screws. The photo above shows how the end rail rests on the top of the box boards, held there by screws. Add the box ends and end rails, secured with screws. I left mine exposed over cup washers, which is the best option given the 3/4"-thickness of the box parts. That's just too thin to allow the screw heads to be counterbored below the surface and covered with tapered wooden plugs. Complete construction by adding the centre support, then drilling a 1 1/2"- diameter hole through the bottom of the cart box for your umbrella shaft.
My wife Sandy and I chose the cart's main colour to match the pattern in the umbrella. She started with two base coats of Pratt and Lambert latex paint called Purple Night, #2332. After painting the decorative pattern on the sides, we distressed the cart by hitting it with a huge bunch of keys followed by a thorough sanding, bordering on severe. Next came some Minwax Early American penetrating stain rubbed into the dings and dents. When this was completely dry, three coats of Helmsman Spar Urethane satin finish came next, with a light sanding in between.
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