Cut the tabletop slats to size. Centre one across the table centre with a 21⁄2" overlap on each side and secure it into place by screwing it from below. Apply the remaining top parts with a 1⁄4" space between them. It’s awkward to screw the outermost slats from below, so I screwed from above and filled the holes with tapered plugs. Round the outside corners to a one-inch radius, then cut the top centre cleat and apply it to the bottom surface of the top slats, extending between the back top piece and front rail. This cleat helps keep the tabletop slats evenly aligned.
With the main table done, it’s on to the sliding shelf. You’ll need a pair of 18" full-extension drawer slides. Cut the slide supports from standard 2 x 4 stock, then plane it to 13⁄8" thick. Cut them to size and secure the supports between the front and back legs of the table. These provide a mounting surface for the drawer slides themselves. The bottom edges must be flush with the bottom edges of the side slats. Cut, glue and nail a support cap strip to the top surface of each slide support. These hide the drawer slides and give the metal a bit of protection from the weather. Now it’s on to the slide-out shelf.
Cut the shelf frame components to size, then join the frame sides, front and back parts into a 19" x 23" rectangle. Cut the shelf top slats and attach one, on centre, to the top edges of the frame front and frame back. Space the other two slats to cover the top edges of the frame and secure them the same way.
Cut the shelf front now and secure it to the front of the shelf frame, making the bottom edges flush. The front should overlap the sides of the shelf frame by 3⁄8" on each side. Attach the cabinet half of the metal drawer slides to the slide support strips, directly beneath the support caps. Attach the drawer portion of the slides to the shelf side edges, positioning them so the bottom edge of the shelf front sits four inches above the floor.
Cover all the screw holes with tapered plugs, sand them flush, then make a full-size template of the front rail decorative trim piece. You can vary the design to suit your tastes or pick up on details from other outdoor furniture. Cut it to shape from 1⁄2" stock, then glue it to the top rail, top edges flush.
Now it’s time to finish the project, and there are lots of ways to go wrong. Since this design includes a lot of nooks, crannies and board-to-board gaps, you’d be wise to avoid any kind of film-forming, varnish-style finishes. There are a number of these finishes that perform well on large, flat surfaces, but they will all eventually need to be stripped and renewed because they will peel. On the other hand, an exterior-grade penetrating oil finish can’t peel, making it a good choice in this situation.
Choose a product that imparts at least a slight colour to the wood, and expect to reapply the product at least once a year. Protect the wood by keeping the table in the shade as much as possible and you’ll enjoy your beautiful deck cooler table for a long time.
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