Assembling the legs
First, round the bottom corners of the leg parts to a 1⁄2" radius. This will prevent splintering if you drag the table. Next, clamp a pair of legs to one apron and one leg brace. The top outer corners of each pair of legs should be 18" apart. The top edge of the brace should be 113⁄8" down from the top of the apron. Just be sure the dado is facing the inside of the assembly as it comes together. You won’t be happy if you get this wrong. The total height of the leg assembly should be 26". When your parts are in position, assemble them with glue and screws. I have a preferred technique for assembling these kinds of joints, especially for outdoor projects. It is a straightforward approach, and there are many benefits to taking this route. Read Building strong joints on the next page for instructions on building durable outdoor joints.
Construct the opposite end of the table in the same way. Roundover all but the top edges of the assembly. You’ll need to tackle inside corners with a rasp and sandpaper because the router can’t get in there.
Use two screws and glue to join the leg braces to the stretcher ends. The stretcher ends fit into those dados you cut earlier. At this point, the table leg and framework is complete.
To the top
Use what you’ve built so far as a workbench for assembling the top. Simply lay the five tabletop boards onto the aprons as they’ll appear when complete. Don’t attach them to the aprons yet.
Cut the three cleats to size now, trimming their ends to a 671⁄2º bevel. These span the underside of the tabletop boards in three places: one cleat 1" in from each end, the third cleat directly across the middle. The tabletop boards should extend 1⁄2" past the ends of the cleats, with 1⁄4" spaces between each board.
Roundover the bottom edges of the cleats before fastening them. After all three are secured without glue, remove one cleat, add glue, reassemble, then do the same for the other two cleats.
With the tabletop assembled, clamp it onto the aprons. The outside surface of the aprons should measure 5" from the tabletop ends. Predrill countersunk holes in the tabletop boards down into the top edges of the aprons. Apply glue, reposition the boards and secure with screws and tapered plugs.
The brace assembly
The brace assemblies for both the picnic table and benches are easy to make, easy to install, and instantly deaden any end-to-end rocking movement.
Start by cutting the braces and brace rails to length, bevelling the ends to that familiar 671⁄2º. Place the parts on a flat surface and dry-fit them together. Be sure the total height of the assembly is 113⁄8" for the table (and 6" when you build the benches). Use #8 x 21⁄2"screws to secure the top and bottom brace rails into the ends of the braces. When you’re done, cut 13⁄8" x 13⁄8" notches to accommodate the centre cleats beneath the tabletop.
Slide the tabletop brace into position between the stretchers and the tabletop, then secure it with a screw near each rail end. For extra strength, countersink two #8 x 21⁄2" screws from the tabletop through the brace rail and into the brace ends. Cover all screw holes with tapered wooden plugs and sand the plugs flush.
The benches are a miniature version of the table, so go ahead and repeat the assembly process you’ve just done.
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