* Download a detailed illustration.
Putting it together
- This design works best aesthetically with a 11⁄4"-thick top and end pieces, and with 3⁄4"-thick shelves, although you could use 3⁄4"-thick material all around if you want to make things simpler. Either way, edge-glue enough solid stock to get the part widths you need, then sand the joints flush.
- Finally, cut all uprights and horizontal pieces to length and width. (It’s best to wait until later to prepare the rolling frame.)
- Except for the shelves on the left side that sit on adjustable shelf pins, all parts come together with either dowels or #20 biscuits.
- Prepare holes or slots now, but don’t put the project together permanently yet. You’ll find it easier to prefinish the parts before assembly as they sit horizontally on your bench.
- Begin bringing parts together with the open half of the cart, joining together the large bottom, middle shelf and end pieces into the right side of the unit. Since these parts are wide, you’ll need to use gluing cauls to distribute clamping pressure across the entire width of the middle part of the assembly.
- Cauls are nothing more than 3⁄4"-thick x 3"-wide pieces of hardwood with a curve cut along one edge. As these are clamped to each end of the assembly, the curved shape of the cauls automatically applies pressure in the centre, even though clamps aren’t there.
- Remove the clamps after a few hours and drill holes for the aluminum rods that hold the ribbon spools in place while still allowing them to spin. These holes go in the left face of the middle upright and the inner face of the left-side upright.
- Bring the middle divider, the short bottom panel, the left-side upright you just drilled and the aluminum rods together onto the growing assembly using glue and clamps.
- While these parts are drying, prepare components for the rolling frame. These include four legs (they support the casters) connected by long and short rails. Prepare 1⁄2"-diameter holes to accept a pair of 1⁄2" fluted dowels to connect each rolling frame joint, then dry-fit them as a test before final glue-up.
- Dowels, or biscuits, and glue are the most attractive way to mount the top, since they are completely invisible. Trouble is, they’re also permanent. If you think you might want to remove the top someday, for refinishing or replacement, use metal L brackets from below or screws driven down from above to secure the top.
- Shelf pins are an excellent way to support shelves, even if you don’t necessarily need adjustable shelves. Bore pin holes, ideally using a brad-point drill bit to prevent tearout.
- Fasten the cabinet to the rolling frame using finishing nails driven from above, then mount all four casters and load up your cart.
You’re now ready to enjoy a mobile work surface with supplies at hand.
Read more in Woodworking Projects and Furniture Plans
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