When building the drawer frame assembly, keep in mind it must be the same overall length as the back apron and should surround the drawers with a 1/16" clearance all around. Fasten the drawer face rails to the side and middle stiles using glue and a pair of #8 x 2" screws for each joint.
Get It Together
Fasten the back and side aprons to the legs with a single #20 biscuit and two pocket screws per joint. Adjust the biscuit joiner fence to accommodate a 1/4" step between the legs and aprons. Dry fit and then sand all the parts with 150-grit paper, slightly rounding any exposed corners.
The next step is to glue the side aprons to the legs and add the back apron. Flip the table upside down on your workbench and add the front drawer assembly. Simply screw it into the legs through the side stiles. Now attach the low-friction drawer buttons for the drawer slides using a pair of adjustable pliers. Pinch the tacks into the bottom rail, about 1/4" back from the front edge. Next comes the curved rail: cut to final length so it fits between the legs, then set it 1/8" back from the drawer face assembly. Finally, glue and nail the tabletop cleats to the side and back apron, flush with the top edges. Secure the tabletop by drilling oversized holes into these strips.
Assemble the drawers with glue; apply a fillet of glue along the bottom perimeter where the sides and back meet the bottom. Once dry, install the drawers before fastening the top.
Mission Complete
I finished my table with a medium-brown stain and two coats of lacquer. If you don't have a proper ventilation system in your shop, substitute poly-urethane in place of lacquer; it protects the wood just as well.
2 Comments
Where is the Illustration?
Good question. Is there an illustration?