The order of events matters in this project, and next on the program is cutting the dados for the drawer divider. Mark the placement for the dados on the top face of the shelf floor, and the underside of the top. Also, remember that the dados in the top are stopped so you don't see them in the completed project. Make them only 10" long, either by halting the cut and squaring the end with a sharp chisel, or cutting the dado clear through, then gluing a cap strip on the front edge.
Dry-fit all the parts you've been working on, then mark the dado location on the inside faces of the gables. When you're done, bring all the parts together and see how they fit. If you've done a good job, everything should push together and hold without glue. Set things aside for now and get ready to work on the back.
A completely solid wood project is classy, but it can also be challenging. And the back panel of this project is a case in point. Here you'll need to cut stopped sliding dovetails to join the back to the gables because of the alternating wood grain that meets at the joint. Don't try a conventional glued connection here such as dowels or biscuits.
Cut your back panel to length and width, but you'll cut the fancy features later. Next, hold the back against the dry-fitted project to mark the spots where dovetail grooves will go.
Using a table-mounted router, mill a dovetail groove using a 1/2"-dia. dovetail bit set to 1/4" high. Hold the wood tightly as you work-the bit may grab. This can be a high-stakes operation, so it's wise to make some test cuts on scrap wood to gain confidence. And whatever you do, remember to cut no further than the height (length) of the gable when you're routing your project's back panel, otherwise the dovetail grooves will be visible after assembly. Here's another tip: if your router is small and has trouble plowing the dovetail groove in one pass, start with a straight bit. You'll find it easier to complete the dovetail slot after routing an initial groove in the wood. Just make multiple passes until you get the groove to the required depth.
The groove is one half of the sliding dovetail. The mating profile required on the back ends of the gables is the other. Take small passes on both sides of each gable, checking the fit of these parts in the grooves you cut in the back earlier. If you go too far and make the dovetail a bit loose, you can tighten things up again slightly. Use a hammer to tap the dovetail edges cut in the gables. You'll spread the wood, thus tightening the fit. Dry-fit all project parts now and tweak everything in preparation for glue-up.
When the fit looks good, cut the decorative profile on the back panel following the grid diagram. I used a 3/8"-dia. spade bit to bore the holes near the top, then I made the angled cuts and scrolled edges with a jigsaw. Clean up the edges with 120-grit garnet paper on a sanding block, then sand the entire project with 150-grit paper in a random-orbit sander. Assemble the parts with glue and clamps, but don't glue the back. It stays in the assembly unfastened so it can expand and contract with changes in humidity.
While the main project is drying, build your two drawers. The first step is to cut the drawer fronts so they fit into their openings with about 1/32" to 1/16" of clearance on all four sides. Next, cut the drawer sides and back, and then fit them together with dados and rabbets as shown on the plans. Test-fit the drawers in their openings and cut the plywood drawer bottoms so they protrude out the back enough to act as drawer stops. The drawer faces should fit flush when the drawers are closed.
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