Routing the diagonal beads and grooves of the door panel is a slightly different process, although you still use the same set-up and method. The diagonal passes of your router require a 1/2" space between parallel beads, and therefore require a straightedge line 7/16" from the previously marked centre lines. Once again, scribe a line on each side of the original lines you marked earlier. Complete the centre bead routing, and you'll have a half-round bead between which you'll need to chisel the wood away to get a flat, 1/2"-wide surface between quarter-round beads.
Next, chuck a large-diameter straight bit into a table-mounted router to remove 1/4" of material around the perimeter of all panels. After each router pass, move the fence farther away from the bit, creating a rabbet 1 1/2"-wide x 1/4"-deep along the perimeter of all the panels. This makes the panels 1/2" thick at the edges, and clears away the stock until the outer bead is met.
Cut Diamonds
Now it's on to a technique called “appliqué.” Although the term has a wide meaning, in this case it refers to the pillowy triangles and diamond shapes that enhance the appearance of door and side panels. I'll admit that these are a lot of work to make-you shape them with a hand plane and sanding block-but the effect is really spectacular.
Start by gathering about four feet of 2" x 12" pine planed down to 1 1/8" thick. As you select your pieces, remember that the grain direction of the appliqué you add must be the same as the underlying wood of the panels. Cross-grain laminations would cause problems with seasonal wood movement. What you're aiming for is a large, diamond-shaped appliqué at the centre of both side panels, flanked by four triangular pieces at the corners. The front panel requires only four pieces of appliqué with no diamond piece.
The main challenge you face now is planing and sanding the end-grain edges of the appliqué without chipping the wood along the points of the triangles. It's very fragile here, and to get around this snag I recommend shaping the end-grain edges first, before cutting the parts to shape from your planks. The remaining edges can then be shaped after cutting, without much fear of chipping a corner.
Since you're shaping the edges of all appliqués by hand, you'll need help getting the profiles consistent. That's where a full-size cardboard template comes in. Prepare it from the grid diagram on page 33, then regularly check it against the edge you're working on for reference.
After shaping all the parts, switch from your coarse sanding block to a fine-grit block when the profile looks good, then finish-sand all parts. Next, apply a thin, even coat of glue to the back faces of all pieces of appliqué. Set each one in place on the panel, then clamp it down. I used large, three-inch spring clamps to hold down the corners where possible. As you clamp pieces in place, wipe off glue squeeze-out immediately with a damp cloth. When the glue is totally dry, finish-sand the entire project with 180-grit sandpaper.
The Natural Look
French settlers often painted their furniture to brighten up the home and escape the monotony of blonde wood throughout the house. The antique that inspired this project wasn't painted, so I've chosen to leave the reproduction with the natural look of wood.
I started with a wash coat of one part Classic Oak Polyshades and one part golden oak stain. This combination doesn't allow the finish to penetrate too quickly, preventing blotching. It also creates a great sealing coat. After a light sanding between coats, apply three straight coats of Classic Oak Polyshades.
Complete your cabinet by attaching the door with some reproduction or antique-style hinges and a door knob. Set the back and side panels into their rabbets from the inside, and then secure them with nylon clips. Secure the door panel in the same way. Attach the shelf supports with 1 1/2" screws driven into the side stiles. The shelf sits on these during use. Now that all the work is done, you have a little bit of history on your hands.
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