Begin by selecting the most attractive maple-veneered plywood you can find for the vertical members of all four levels. Be sure to cut adjoining parts from the same piece of ply, to preserve continuity of grain pattern. Note that the outer vertical pieces are 3/4" higher than the internal lower dividers (D3). Continue by cutting all horizontal members. Since there's only 10" of wood visible on each “step” surface, orient the top parts so the best wood remains visible after assembly.
Since you're working with plywood, all of the exposed edges need to be covered in some way after cutting. I used iron-on edging for this, although solid edging is certainly an option. You'll find it easier to edge with oversized pieces of ply first, then cut them to size after the glue has dried.
Even though this project is simple, now's a good time to dry fit your parts before you get to the glue stage. While you're at it, mark all of the joint locations for the biscuit slots you'll cut later. As you work, be careful that everything remains square. Even small errors become more noticeable with so many vertical and horizontal surfaces.
In addition to biscuits, I also used #8 1 1/2" countersunk screws at a few locations, to reduce the need for so many clamps and to speed production. Screws should only be used where you won't see them in the final project, in areas that are covered by neighbouring sections.
Begin assembly with lower level D. Forget that the other sections exist for a minute, and complete another dry-fit of parts D1, D2, D3 and D4. Since too-shallow biscuit slots can prevent project parts from coming together fully during final assembly, it's always wise to test-fit biscuit joints without glue.
Continue by putting together middle level C. Use biscuits to join this subassembly to lower level D when it's dry. Repeat the process for upper level B, completing the stationary lower section of the chest. Join the separate step top A before moving on to the drawers.
7 Comments
Do you have the plans for this step tansu? if so please forward link to birniegw@yahoo.com Thanks very much for your assistance. Gavin
I read with interest your article. Having visted the Morikami Japanese Museum in Boca Raton, Florida, a few years ago, I saw a genuine Tansu Chest from the 19th century. Ever since I have had a desire to build one. Yours is the first I have seen that has provided me with details and incentive to pursue the dream. Just as Gavin asked in his comment, I also would appreciate a link to download any plans you might have for this amazing project. I noticed conspicuous by its absence is the materials list for the Upper Level B and Middle Level C. Was this intentional or just an oversight? Thank you very much for any help you can provide. Sincerely, Barry Heller NaticckUSAWdwrkr printserve1109@yahoo.com
am also interested in any plans thanks nevadabelle@hotmail.com
please send plans if u have them nevadabelle@hotmail.com
The link to the project template at the top of page two coupled with the materials list also on page two should be sufficient for completing the project, but more detail would be nice. Although a complete materials list would be quite nice, the details of levels "B" and "C" in the project template show that only the length of the tops and backs need to be lengthened accordingly.
The link to the project template at the top of page two coupled with the materials list also on page two should be sufficient for completing the project, but more detail would be nice. Although a complete materials list would be quite nice, the details of levels "B" and "C" in the project template show that only the length of the tops and backs need to be lengthened accordingly.
Hi Cathy! this is going to be my fist wood working project. I am so excited to build this chest. anymore detailed plans you might have would be greatly appreciated. thank you, sasha randomsasha@gmail.com