I used a bearing-equipped slot-cutting bit in a table-mounted router to cut the mirror groove in my assembled frame. Make one pass centred on the 3/4" stock, then raise the bit slightly and make another pass to get the correct width. You should end up with a 1/2"-deep groove that fits the mirror nicely, with a little room for some adhesive you'll apply later. If you don't have a slot-cutting bit, cut the mirror groove using a tablesaw before the frame is assembled.
With the groove done, trim off the extra stile and rail length you left on to allow for tearout. Cut a 20ยบ angle on the end of the horizontal piece of the frame, leaving about 1/2"of vertical material on the end of this cut, as shown in the plans.
Make a Connection
Use a framing square to lay out the position of the 3/8"-diameter aluminum rods that connect the edges of the zebrawood back piece and the wenge mirror frame. They're inexpensive and available at most building-supply stores. Position these rods at 1" intervals; see plans for details. Use a dowelling jig to drill the rod holes accurately. My jig has hardened steel bushings that help guide a brad-point bit into the precise centre of the edge of each board. Each hole should be 11/2" deep. When all the holes are drilled, run the same drill bit into the holes again, this time with a cordless drill. This process makes the holes slightly larger, so the rods go in more easily while making room for epoxy. Test-fit a sample of the rod to make sure you have the holes right.
Next, cut six pieces of aluminum rod to 5" lengths. Polish them to a shine with #0000 steel wool, then insert them into the zebrawood back. Set the wenge mirror frame into place, leaving a 2" gap between the two parts. If you need to make adjustments to rod length or the holes you drilled, do it now. When the assembly goes together without binding, pull it all apart and reassemble with epoxy. A small dab in each rod hole will do the job.
The mirror extends up beyond the wenge frame simply as a design feature. If you cut your mirror slot with a router, as I did, the slot will have a rounded interior corner-a square-cornered mirror won't fit. That's why you need to make a 1/8"-thick template of your mirror, with a rounded corner that fits properly in your frame. Bring this template to your mirror supplier so they can cut your mirror with the curved corner to fit just right.
Get ready for finishing by sanding the entire project with 120-, 150- and 180-grit sandpaper, then install the shelf using a 3"-long bead of glue in the centre of the shelf dado. To allow the back to expand and contract with seasonal movement while also providing support, I drove a # 8 x 11/4" wood screw into an oval-shaped hole drilled into each end of the glue bead. Finally, install a pair of rigid mounting brackets on the back of the shelf assembly to hold it to the wall.
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