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| by:
Rick Campbell
photos: Tracy Cox
illustration: Len Churchill |
UMBRELLA STAND |
| Full-length
dimensions and a solid walnut frame make a practical dressing-room
addition |
The problem with umbrellas is that you often can’t find
one when it’s raining. Put an end to that soggy situation
by building this functional and attractive Mission-style umbrella
stand for your front hall. I used quartersawn white oak to build
mine, a traditional material for Mission furniture, although
any lumber you choose will work fine.
Begin by cutting out blanks for
the legs, rails and slats from 3/4"-thick wood. The plans
show how the bottom of the legs are tapered to form feet, and
the edges are mitered 45º where they meet in the corners.
Mill a 3/8"-wide x 1/2"-deep groove along the edge
of each rail to accept the vertical slats, then run the slat
blanks through the surface planer until they slide smoothly
into the grooves. This kind of operation is one of the hidden
advantages of owning a planer. It gives you the ability to bring
the thicknesses of parts down to fit precisely into precut slots,
grooves and channels, making it easier to create tight joinery.
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| Quartersawn
oak’s distinctive grain makes this umbrella
stand an attractive addition to your front entrance |
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| Solid
wood throughout means that even the bottom panel
is attractive |
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| The
legs are made from two slats that come together
at the corners and are tapered and mitered 45° |
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CLICK
ABOVE FOR
LARGER IMAGE |
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I
used #20 biscuits to reinforce the corners of the L-shaped legs
and #0 biscuits to make the connection between the legs and
rails. You’ll find 5/16" x 1 1/2" fluted dowels
are an excellent alternative if you don’t own a biscuit
joiner. Either way, prepare all the biscuit slots or dowel holes
now. Before final assembly, you’ll need to notch the corner
of the #0 biscuits where they protrude into the rail slots.
Sand all the parts, then you’re
ready to assemble the base. Start by sliding the slats into
the rail grooves with a dab of glue applied to the centre section
of the slat ends to stop them from moving. By only gluing the
centre, you allow the wood to move laterally as it expands and
contracts with the seasons. Next, dab glue on the ends of the
rails and connect them to the legs to form four separate panels.
When the parts are dry, bring the frames together and secure
the entire assembly with biscuits using two or three web clamps.
Check for square, tight corners before setting the base aside
to dry. You can close small gaps in the outside tip of the miters
by drawing the shank of a screwdriver up and down the corner
with moderate pressure while the glue is wet, which bends the
wood inward, closing tiny flaws.
After the clamps are removed,
tack cleats to the lower rails, creating a ledge to support
the bottom panel. Glue and finishing nails work well. Cut the
bottom panel to fit and slide it into position from the top
of the base. Apply glue to the top of the cleats to secure the
bottom panel.
Next, cut the trim pieces that
cap the top of the stand. Miter them at the corners, like a
picture frame, and use #20 biscuits to reinforce the joints.
Assemble the cap frame with glue and biscuits, then set it aside
to dry. When the clamps are released, spread glue on the top
edge of the stand, centre the cap frame on it, then tack the
frame in place with a few finishing nails. After filling the
nail holes and giving the project a final sanding, you’re
ready to apply the finish of your choice.
I
applied a pre-stain conditioner before wiping on two coats of
dark oak stain. Conditioner helps prevent a blotchy finish by
evening out stain absorption. Next came three coats of wipe-on
polyurethane for durable protection. I recommend sanding with
#240-grit paper between applications and wet-sanding with #600-grit
wet/dry paper after the last coat of poly has cured for a full
week. You’ll find that this method creates a silky smooth
finish.
As you move your handiwork near
the door and fill it with umbrellas, relax. You’re ready
for the next rainy day. |
| You Will Need |
| Part* |
Size |
Qty. |
| Legs |
3/4" x 1 1/2"
x 24" |
8 |
| Rails |
3/4" x 2" x
7" |
8 |
| Slats |
3/8" x 2 1/2"
x 19" |
8 |
| Cap strips |
3/4" x 1 3/4"
x 11 3/4" |
4 |
| Bottom panel |
3/8" x 8 1/2"
x 8 1/2" |
1 |
| Cleats |
3/8" x 3/8"
x 8 1/2" |
4 |
| *
All materials are quartersawn white oak |
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