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by:
John Sillaots
photos: Dave Starrett
illustration: Len Churchill |
FLOWER TOWER |
| Our
cedar obelisk makes an attractive focal point for your garden |
Trellis obelisks are favoured by many gardeners as decorative
focal points. “They’re elegant, formal, traditional,” explains
Beckie Fox, editor-in-chief of our sister magazine, Canadian
Gardening. “You can use them at the beginning of
a path, or at the centre of a formal vegetable garden. A pair
can mark a stairway leading up to a terrace.” They also make
excellent homes for a wide range of vines and other plants—you
can rotate the obelisk to expose each side to the sun. And our
design features simple, knockdown portability. The top half
of the tower is attached with just four screws, making it easy
to unfasten and bring the stand and pot indoors if desired.
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| Start at the Bottom |
 Despite
its size, this project is simple to build; no fancy joinery
or tools required. Start by cutting the legs, cross supports
and support blocks. Build two flat leg frames, then join them
into a box in a second step. Use outdoor glue and one 2 1/2"-long
deck screw at each joint. Complete the base assembly by custom-cutting
the diagonal angle supports, and fastening them to the sides
of the structure using glue and 1 1/2" finishing nails.
The base also includes a grid
that supports the plant pot you’ll use later. It’s built separately
and fastened to the inside face of the cross supports with 1
1/2" deck screws. Cut the inner grid members now, and clamp
them together so their notches can all be cut at once. This
will speed your work and ensure your notches are perfectly aligned.
Assemble the long, short and inner grid members into a frame
using 1 1/2"-long screws and glue. Securing the grid within
the base will add strength to the structure.
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| Building the Top |
The angled top part of the planter sits on a biscuit-joined,
mitred frame. Assemble this now, then add the four corner posts,
following the cutting directions above. Use two 1 1/2"-long
deck screws through each corner of the bottom frame into each
corner post. Four similar screws driven down through the top
cap base secures the upper ends of the corner posts.
The centre strips and chevrons
fasten to the planter’s top with glue and 1 1/2" finishing nails.
The ready-made top cap ball is designed for use on a fence post
but also works well here. Glue it onto the top cap base.
A project of this sort is too
intricate to paint or varnish, but it is practical to protect
it with a penetrating sealer or oil. My wife Sandy applied one
generous coat of tung oil to our tower with the intent of applying
more every year. You could also use boiled linseed oil or a
silicone-based water repellent. Whatever you do, don’t apply
anything that forms a surface film. If it ever peels (and it
probably will one day), you’d never find the courage and patience
to scrape it all off.
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| Cutting the Compound Angles |
 The
compound angles on the ends of the corner posts are the most
challenging and critical part of this project. The plans show
how the legs are cut on 10° angles in two planes. A compound
mitre saw, tablesaw or radial arm saw are all ideal for the
job.
Since machine angle gauges can
be inaccurate, here’s a tip for sneaking up to the perfect angles
bit by bit. Start by trimming the bottom ends of each corner
post to what you think is the correct angle, leaving the overall
length of the posts 1/2" longer than needed. Position the bottom
ends of the posts on the assembled bottom frame and note the
accuracy of the cuts. Finishing nails driven partially up through
the bottom frame will stop the corner posts from sliding out.
Recut as needed until all four posts sit flat. Now, use a carpenter’s
level to draw a continuous line around the top of the corner
post group. These marks show the length and angle to which the
top ends need to be trimmed. They also make it easier to orient
the top cuts properly in relation the bottom ones. The two trimmed
ends of each corner post must be parallel. |
Click
on the image
above to enlarge it |
You
Will Need |
| For
the Top |
Size |
Quantity |
| Bottom
frame members |
3/4"
x 2 1/2" x 22" |
4 |
| Corner
posts |
1
1/2" x 1 1/2" x 48" |
4 |
| Centre
strips |
3/4"
x 1" x 45 3/4" |
4 |
| Bottom
chevrons |
3/4"
x 1" x 14 7/8" |
8 |
| Top
chevrons |
3/4"
x 1" x 10 1/8" |
8 |
| Top
cap base |
3/4"
x 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" |
1 |
| Top
cap |
4
1/2" x 4 1/2" x 6" |
1 |
| For
the Base |
Size |
Quantity |
| Legs
|
1
1/2" x 1 1/2" x 22" |
4 |
| Cross
supports |
1
1/2" x 1 1/2" x 17" |
12 |
| Blocks |
1
1/2" x 1 1/2" x 2" |
8 |
| Angle
supports |
3/4"
x 1 1/2" x 14 1/4" |
8 |
| For
the Pot Grid |
Size |
Quantity |
| Short
grid members |
3/4"
x 1 1/2" x 15 3/8" |
2 |
| Long
grid members |
3/4"
x 1 1/2" x 16 7/8" |
2 |
| Inner
grid members |
3/4"
x 1 1/2" x 15 3/8" |
6 |
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