|
|
 |
|
|
| |
 |
|
|
| by:
Paul Lewis
photos: Roger Yip
illustration: Len Churchill |
GREAT ON ICE |
| An
inspired shape and metal blade elevate the lowly ice scraper |
The idea
to improve a standard ice scraper has been floating around in
my head for some time now. The unique shape of this scraper
positions the heel of your hand directly behind the blade, which
puts more power behind the tool. Combine this with a brass blade,
which is harder than plastic (but not so hard as to scratch
the glass) and even the toughest windshield ice is defenseless
in its path. I used solid cherry for this project, but any tightly
grained hardwood will do. Three thicknesses of stock are required:
3/4", 1/2" and 1/4". Resaw these using a tall fence on a bandsaw
or tablesaw.
 |
| This
ice scraper is designed to defeat even the toughest
layers of windshield frosting |
|
Gentlemen, Start Your Bandsaws
The
handle for the scraper is cut from 3/4" stock using a bandsaw.
You could transfer my pattern directly to your wood and cut
away, but since this project needs to fit your hand, you may
wish to experiment with the design. Cut a few handle shapes
from some pine to see how they feel. The final handle needs
a 1/4" roundover on the entire perimeter of each side. I used
a table-mounted router with a guide bearing to do this, but
careful sanding is an alternative. Cut the notch for the blade
assembly next.
Blade Sandwich
| |
| The
brass hardware is sunk below the scraper’s surface
to provide easy handling |
|
Use a scribe
to lay out the blade on the brass stock. I used the factory-sheared
edges of the brass for the front edge and one side of my blade,
and the other sides were cut with a hacksaw. Round the sharp
corners and smooth the cut edges with a file. Cut the top plate
to size from the 1/2" cherry and the bottom plate from the 1/4"
stock. I used a table-mounted router with a 45° chamfer bit
to machine the front edge of the top plate. It’s easiest to
drill the three components of the blade assembly all at once.
Temporarily assemble the pieces using double-sided tape. Using
a drill press with a Forstner bit, drill the 3/8" countersinks
on the top plate first. Then move to a 3/16" twist bit to drill
the holes right through all three pieces. Finally, flip the
whole thing over and drill holes for the countersunk nuts with
a 1/2" forstner bit. Pop the blade assembly apart and remove
the tape. Then reassemble using the brass nuts and bolts. To
make the scraper easier on bare hands (and to prevent any errant
scratches on the paint), it is important that all parts of the
brass fasteners are below the surface of the wood. Once tightened,
I ground the protruding ends of the bolts flush with the nuts.
Assembly
 |
| CLICK
TO ENLARGE |
|
Once the
blade assembly is complete, cut the notch that will receive
the handle. The handle is attached to the blade assembly using
epoxy and a single stainless steel screw. Drill a 3/8" countersink
in the back of the handle. Take care to ensure the screw goes
into the top plate of the blade assembly rather than in between
the top and bottom plates. To finish off the scraper, I applied
two coats of Swedish penetrating oil, followed by two coats
of satin polyurethane. While this scraper is much too nice to
toss in the glove box, please refrain from hanging it from the
rearview mirror. |
| You
Will Need |
| Part |
Size |
Qty. |
| Handle-cherry |
3/4"
x 4" x 6 1/2" |
1 |
| Top
plate-cherry |
1/2"
x 2 1/4" x 4" |
1 |
| Bottom
plate-cherry |
1/4"
x 2" x 4" |
1 |
| Blade-brass |
1/32"
x 1 1/2" x 4" |
1 |
| Nuts
and bolts-brass |
3/16"
x 7/8" |
4 |
|
|
|
|
|
| FREE
NEWSLETTER |
Subscribe to our newsletter. Every few weeks, you'll get a behind-the-scenes
peek at the magazine, the web site and the folks who put it all together.
CLICK HERE |
|
|
PROJECTS
