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| by:
Lawrence Winterburn
photos: Roger Yip
illustration: Len Churchill |
GARDEN TRELLIS (part 2) |
Each of the four corner caps needs to be L-shaped in cross-section,
and now’s the time to make them that way. Use a tablesaw
to cut a 3/4" x 3/4" notch out of one corner of each
1 1/2" x 1 1/2" cap. This leaves a 3/4" step
along both inside edges, enough to accommodate the decorative
top and bottom rails you need to install next.
Saw some 2 1/2"-wide stock
for your rails, then cross cut them to length so they fit snugly
between the vertical corner caps. You’ll find it easier
to get a good fit if you trim the ends on a 5º angle instead
of square. This slight bevel is an old trim-carpenter’s
trick: it helps wedge the rails in place. At this point, it’s
a good idea to seal the back, ends and edges of parts such as
the top and bottom rails with stain before installation. This
helps extend the life of the finish by stopping water from soaking
in and getting a foothold in the wood.
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| Elegant
design features include the trellis ladder (above)
and the crowning capital (below) |
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Next
comes the mitred box-top frame. A chopsaw is an enormous help
here. If your lumber is typical of the semi-dry construction-grade
stuff carried by most lumberyards, you may find that somewhat
wet wood of this sort tends to distort as you cut it. You’ll
see what I mean if you cut all the pieces correctly, yet the
joints still look ragged when they come together. The problem
is fuzzy wood fibers are holding the frame members apart just
enough to make it look like you don’t know what you’re
doing. Here’s the fix: start with a nice sharp blade in
your chopsaw, then hold each piece of wood firmly (without allowing
it to move at all) as you make two downward chops for each cut.
You’ll notice that on the second pass, the ragged wood
fibres come off, leaving a smooth joint surface that yields
a tight result. It’s a simple fix, but it works.
Cut and mitre the four top trim
pieces, seal the end grain with stain, then fasten the parts
together into a frame using #8 x 3 1/2" screws. Three-inch
screws are ideal for securing the assembled frame to the top
of the box, but don’t do it just yet.
Building a Pyramid
The tapered corner posts of the top part of this project are
what make it an obelisk, and you need to begin by cutting some
high-grade 5/4 decking to width for the four corner posts. As
you work, you’ll see that there are two kinds of parts
here: one pair with pointy top tips, and another pair with blunt
tips.
The plans show other minor variations
in details between these two versions. You’ll find a jigsaw
is ideal for trimming the steep, top angle on each post. Clean
up the cut edge with a belt sander when you’re done.
Fasten the two blunt-tip corner
posts together first using three-inch deck screws, then add
the other pair to the outside faces. You’ll find it easier
to fasten these two final parts by screwing from the back face
at a slight angle. Once again, join parts together initially
with an 18-gauge brad nailer to make the assembly process easier.
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PART 1
| PART 2 | PART
3 |
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