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| by:
Rick Campbell
photos: Kathryn Hollinrake
illustration: Len Churchill |
FOLD-IN RACK |
| This
fold-in rack makes a great resting spot for damp swimwear |
By the pool, dock or deck, create the perfect place for wet
bathing suits and towels to dry on this summer. When it’s
time to head back into the water, simply fold the arms back
against the wall and the rack is out of the way. I used teak
and aluminum rods for a long-lasting project but you can substitute
other materials of your choice.
At Arms Length
Start by cutting the long and short segments for the arm assemblies.
Make a template to lay out the curve and hole locations on each
end for the pivot bolts and aluminum rods.
Drill 1/4"-dia. pivot bolt
holes with a spiral bit then switch to a 1/2"-dia. Forstner
bit and bore the flat-bottomed rod holes. Enlarge the rod holes
using sandpaper wrapped around a dowel. This helps the segments
move freely. Cut the curved ends on the arm segments and sand
down to the layout lines.
Mounting Frame
Cut the vertical supports and cross braces for the mounting
frame. Connect the arms to the mounting frame with pivot bolts
on the top and an aluminum connecting rod on the bottom. The
rod travels in a pair of 1/2" deep slots milled on the
inside of the vertical supports and locks into an L-shaped pocket
when the arms are extended.
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| The
lower aluminum rod rides in a slot milled into the
side of the rack. When open, the rod locks into
place in an L-shaped notch |
|
Mill
the slot on a router table with a 1/2"-dia. straight bit.
Make reference lines on the outside face of the vertical supports
to mark the leading and trailing edge of the bit. Mill the groove
with multiple passes, raising the bit 1/8" for each pass.
Once the slot is complete, reposition the fence and widen the
slot 1/16". The widened slot prevents the rod from binding.
To
make the L-shaped pocket, drill a 9/16"-dia. hole with
a Forstner bit, and clean out the opening between the hole and
the groove with a chisel.
Switch to a 1/4" spiral bit
and drill pivot bolt holes in the top of the vertical pieces.
Attach the cross braces with notches
in the back of the vertical frame. Cut these out with a bandsaw
or use a tablesaw to nibble away the material.
Lay out and cut the curves on
the four frame pieces and the recess on the front of the vertical
pieces. Next, chamfer all the edges on the arm segments and
frame pieces with a router spinning a 45° bevel bit. Cut
the aluminum rods to size with a hacksaw and remove any burrs
with sandpaper.
Finishing Up
Assemble the rack with brass bolts, washers and acorn nuts to
secure the pivot points. Attach the cross braces to the vertical
supports with stainless-steel screws. Drill pilot holes and
counterbores for all the screws. Disassemble
the rack and apply three coats of Circa 1850 Tung ‘n Teak
oil.
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| CLICK
ABOVE TO ENLARGE |
|
Finally,
reassemble putting two-part epoxy in the recessed rod holes
and where the cross braces and vertical supports meet. Check
that everything moves freely and then apply a dab of epoxy to
the brass nut threads to prevent them from working loose. Drill
holes in both the top and bottom cross braces to hang the rack. |
| You
Will Need |
| For
the Arm Assembles |
Material |
Size |
Qty. |
| Long
segments |
teak |
3/4"
x 1 1/4" x 12" |
6 |
| Short
segments |
teak |
3/4"
x 1 1/4" x 8" |
2 |
| Bolts |
brass |
1/4"
x #20 x 2" |
6 |
| Washers |
brass |
1/4" |
18 |
| Acorn
nuts |
brass |
1/4" |
6 |
| Long
rods |
aluminum |
1/2"
OD x 19" |
3 |
| Short
rods |
aluminum |
1/2"
OD x 17 1/2" |
1 |
| Mounting
frame rod |
aluminum
|
1/2"
OD x 20" |
1 |
| For
the Mounting Frame |
| Vertical
supports |
teak |
3/4"
x 3" x 15" |
2 |
| Cross
braces |
teak |
3/4"
x 2" x 25" |
2 |
| Screws |
stainless-steel |
#8
x 1 1/2" |
2 |
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