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| by:
Gary Walchuk
photos: Christopher Campbell
illustration: Len Churchill |
DESKTOP FILING BOX |
| Keep
your most-used files close at hand |
The key to making this handy desktop filer is accurate cuts.
I used 3/8" and 1/2"-thick Baltic birch ply for mine,
but you could use more traditional plywoods, medium-density
fiberboard (MDF) or even solid wood. With a few adjustments
you can size your project to fit more (or fewer) files. For
legal-size files, make the box depth 9 1/2" from the top
of the aluminum angle strips to the box bottom, with the metal
15 1/8" apart. Everything else is open to your interpretation,
so have some fun!
Getting Started
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| Desktop
filing is a great idea but the usual plastic bins
are an eyesore. Build this good-looking Baltic birch
hanging-file-folder holder and stash your files
in style |
|
Start by
cutting the sides to size, beveling the bottom and inside ends
to 45°. Cut the side linings now from 1/2"-thick stock,
then glue and clamp one lining part to each inside surface of
both sides. Note how the sides and lining parts create a rabbet
on the ends where they come together.
Cut the front and back pieces
now, then glue and clamp the front only into the rabbeted edges
of the sides. Leave the back piece off for now. Next, cut the
bottom piece, mitre the ends to match the mitred edges of the
side parts, then glue, clamp and nail the bottom section to
the lower edges of the front and sides.
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| Aluminum
angle makes a smooth-sliding runner for hanging
file folders |
|
The
front pocket comes next. It’s built on its own, then attached
to the main box after assembly. Cut all the parts now with mitred
edges on the bottom ends of the pocket sides and bottom. Attach
one pocket front flush with the front edge of its matching side
member, then attach the bottom piece to both. Secure the opposite
side with glue and nails before adding the second pocket-front
part. When the glue has dried, clamp the completed pocket assembly
to the front of the file box, centred, with bottom parts flush.
From the inside of the box, predrill countersunk holes to secure
the pocket assembly, two screws per side. Now you can finally
glue and clamp the box back in place. Countersink the nails,
fill the holes, then sand the entire project.
The Big Finish
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| CLICK
ABOVE TO ENLARGE |
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Paint or
seal this project any way you like. If you’re planning
a contrasting colour scheme as I did, remove the front pocket
assembly to make the process easier. I applied two coats of
black acrylic paint using a disposal foam brush, followed by
two coats of satin, water-based polyurethane. Use a hacksaw
to cut the strips of aluminum angle to length for the top of
the box, then fasten it with two #4 x 1/2"-long screws
in each piece. Add the pulls to the sides and some self-adhesive
floor glides to the bottom and you’re all set to control
paper in your home office. |
| You
Will Need |
| Part |
Size |
Qty. |
| Sides |
3/8"
x 6 3/4" x 10 3/4" |
2 |
| Side
lining |
1/2"
x 6" x 9" |
2 |
| Front/back |
3/8"
x 9 1/2" x 16 1/8" |
2 |
| Bottom |
3/8"
x 6 3/4" x 16 7/8" |
1 |
| Pocket
fronts |
3/8"
x 5 1/2" x 7" |
2 |
| Pocket
sides |
3/8"
x 2 1/2" x 7 3/8" |
2 |
| Pocket
bottom |
3/8"
x 2 1/2" x 12 3/4" |
1 |
| Aluminum
angle |
1/2"
x 1/2" x 6" |
2 |
| Pulls |
Lee
Valley 01A57.22 |
2 |
| (all
parts - Baltic birch plywood) |
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