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| by:
Phil Barley
photos: Dave Starrett
illustration: Len Churchill |
FROST-FREE FLORA |
| Get
a head start on the growing season with our unique cold frame |
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| An
early spring: Now the winter of discontent is no
longer upon our warm and cozy plants. Use a cold
frame when you need to extend the growing season:
start seedlings or harden them off, force bulbs
or grow early crops of cool-weather vegetables like
lettuce and radishes |
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Cold frames
extend both ends of the Canadian growing season by acting as
miniature greenhouses for frost-sensitive plants. Although this
design includes the conventional salvaged storm window top,
the system of booster frames makes it unique. By adding booster
frames beneath the main frame, mature plants may be shielded
from autumn frosts. Make the frames from 1 x 8 cedar boards.
Main Frame Tips
Once
you have your materials, check that the salvaged window frame
is square. If not, at least make sure your window is structurally
sound—it can be trimmed square before construction begins. The
outside dimensions of the main frame should be 1/4" smaller
than your window on the front and sides; the back side must
be flush to allow hinging. The resulting overhang helps shed
rain and makes the window easier to grab and open from any side.
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| Prop
master: Double nuts secure the simple hardware pivot
for the lid support |
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The window is angled to increase solar gain. That’s why I made
the front of the main frame half as high as the back. Dry-fit
the main frame to match your window size, then join them into
a frame with 2 x 2 corner blocks, #10 x 1 1/2" wood screws and
weatherproof glue. Use a carpenter’s glue with a type II rating,
or polyurethane glue. The bottoms of the corner blocks on the
main frame are raised 1/4", while the tops are flush, allowing
the booster frame to nestle under the main frame and lock there.
Using scrap left over from the
front panel, cut two lid supports. Position the pivot holes
for the supports far enough forward so the support ends extend
over the front of the frame. This allows you to prop the window
open slightly when just a little ventilation is needed. Add
chains to stop the window from tilting back and damaging the
hinges. Hook-and-eye latches will keep the wind from lifting
the glass and breaking it.
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| CLICK
ABOVE |
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The booster frames should be the same length and width as the
main frame, but without tapered sides. The corner posts are
cut the same length as the width of the booster frame’s sides,
but shifted upwards 1/4" during installation, creating an extended
locking post on top to mesh with the frame above, and a pocket
underneath for locking onto frames below.
Visit www.plansinwood.com
for more of Phil Barley's creations. |
| You
Will Need |
| For
Cold Frame |
Material |
Size |
Qty. |
| Glazed
frame top |
salvaged
window |
. |
1 |
| Main
frame sides/back |
cedar |
3/4"
x 7 1/2" |
3 |
| Main
frame front |
cedar |
3/4"
x 3 1/2" |
1 |
| Booster
sides/front/back |
cedar |
3/4"
x 5 1/2" |
4 |
| Corner
posts |
cedar |
1
1/2" x 1 1/2" |
8 |
| Pivoting
lid supports |
cedar |
3/4"
x 1 1/2" x 8" |
2 |
| Hardware |
| Galvanized
flathead screws |
#10
x 1 1/2" |
| Window
hinges |
3"
T-style with mounting screws |
2 |
| Galvanized
bolts |
5/16"
dia. x 2 1/4" |
2 |
| Galvanized
flat washers |
5/16
dia. |
4 |
| Galvanized
nuts |
5/16
dia. |
4 |
| Window
latches |
hook-and-eye
sets |
2 |
| Window
chain and screws |
brass
48" |
2 |
| Window
handle |
corrosion-resistant |
1 |
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