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| by:
Gary Walchuk
photos: Simon Cheung
illustration: Len Churchill |
BUTTERFLY HOUSE DUO |
| Build
a backyard haven for travelling butterflies |
Butterflies are active pollinators, just as important but less
threatening than bees. Welcome them into your garden with a
protective butterfly house that safeguards monarchs, tiger swallowtails
and other winged wonders from the elements and predators. This
project features thin slits that simulate the dark nooks and
crannies in which butterflies usually hide. Inside the house,
thin layers of rough bark against the walls give the butterflies
a foothold in their abode. After butterfly season, simply tip
back the lid and pressure-wash the house clean.
Hinge-front House
Cut the front and back parts eight inches wide with a tablesaw,
then mark and cut a pair of angles at the top and bottom ends,
20° from square, forming a 140° peak. While you have
your saw adjusted, you might as well cut the peak support and
front pull too. These are both smaller than the other angled
parts, so to keep things safe, start with wood that’s
longer than necessary. Cut all the peak angles, then crosscut
to final length. The total length of the front and back pieces
should be 18" from tip to tip. You’ll use the back
piece this size, but the front needs a little more work.
 |
| Build
a butterfly house that hinges open in the front |
|
First,
mark a line across the width of the front, 3 1/4" up from
the bottom peaked end. Tilt your saw blade 20° from square,
then crosscut along the line. This creates an angled hinge line
that allows the front to tilt open, and it also sheds rainwater.
Cut a series of slotted entry holes on the larger top part of
the front piece. I made these vertical slots by drilling 1/2"-dia.
holes three inches apart, then connected the holes with jigsaw
cuts. The top of the centre slot is three inches down from the
peak, while the tops of the side slots are 3/4" lower and
1 1/2" to either side.
Complete the front door by trimming
1/16" off from each edge to make it 7 7/8" wide. This
creates a gap between the door and sides of the house for smooth
door operation.
Prepare the sides now, crosscutting
their top edges to a 70° bevel. Cut the bottom member and
door cleats and you’re ready for assembly.
There’s no fancy joinery
involved in this project: butt joints, outdoor glue and countersunk
screws secure everything together. First, fasten one side piece
to the edge of the back panel. Be sure the side overlaps the
back by 1/4". Next, join the bottom to the back and side,
1/4" up from their bottom ends. Attach the remaining side,
followed by the lower half of the hinged front face. Just be
sure the bevelled top edge of this part faces outward.
Glue and nail the door-stop cleats
to each inside surface of the sides. The front edges of the
cleats should sit one inch back from the front edges of the
sides. Set the front peak support in place next—on top
of the top ends of the cleats—but don’t attach it
yet. For now it just holds the sides exactly eight inches apart.
Cut
the roof parts now, making sure to prepare one left and one
right version. Bevel cuts at the peak are 20° from square.
Secure one roof piece to the back, side and peak support, then
add the second one. Grab the angled front pull that you cut
earlier, then glue and nail it to the door, one inch down from
the top peak. Add door hinges and a magnetic catch. Plug the
screw holes and pare them flush, then paint, stain or clear-coat
your butterfly house. Line it with bark strips and you’re
done!
 |
| Build
a butterfly house that lifts open at the top |
|
Ball-top House
Cut the back and front pieces to rough size, then prepare a
full-size template for the outline of the bottom end shape.
When you’re done, trace the shape and cut the outline.
Next come the butterfly entry
slots. Cut them 1/2" wide by 3 1/2" long. As with
the hinged-front house, I created these by drilling 1/2"-dia.
holes three inches apart, completing the slots with a jigsaw.
Join one side member to the house back, ensuring the top ends
are flush, then add the bottom panel. Use outdoor glue and countersunk
screws to hold all the butt joints together.
Cut the decorative awning next,
then secure it to the front of the house, one inch below the
top edge. The lid is made of five stacked parts, beginning with
the lid base followed by four lid layers. Rout an ogee profile
around the outside of each lid layer, fine-sand these parts,
then join them with glue and #8 1 1/4"-long screws. Begin
by applying the largest lid layer to the lid base, then work
up from there. Use a dowel to attach a wooden ball (available
at woodcraft stores) to the lid top.
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| CLICK
ABOVE TO ENLARGE |
|
Plug
the screw holes, pare and sand them flush, then paint, stain
or finish the box. Line the interior, back and sides with bark
strips, and the butterfly house is ready to mount!
Mounting Tips
Mount these butterfly houses to a building or fence with a couple
of screws through the back. Because both also have a flat bottom,
it’s just as easy to mount one directly to the top of
a square-cut post. You can also use a metal post with a plate
or brackets to secure the bottom of the house. |
| You
Will Need |
Hinge-Front
House |
Size |
Qty. |
Ball-top
House |
Size |
Qty. |
| Front
and back |
3/4"
x 8" x 18" |
2 |
Back |
3/4"
x 8" x 16 1/2" |
1 |
| Sides |
3/4"
x 6 1/2" x 15 1/8" |
2 |
Front |
3/4"
x 8" x 14 1/2" |
1 |
| Bottom |
3/4"
x 4 1/2" x 8" |
1 |
Sides |
3/4"
x 7" x 12" |
2 |
| Front
peak support |
3/4"
x 2" x 8" |
1 |
Bottom |
3/4"
x 5" x 8" |
1 |
| Door-stop
cleats |
1/4"
x 3/4" x 13 1/2" |
2 |
Awning |
3/4"
x 1 1/2" x 6 3/8" |
1 |
| Roof |
3/4"
x 9" x 7 1/2" |
2 |
Lid
base |
3/4"
x 4 7/8" x 7 7/8" |
1 |
| Front
pull |
3/4"
x 1 1/8" x 6" |
1 |
Lid
layers |
3/4"
x 9" x 11 1/2" |
1 |
| Hinges |
|
2 |
Lid
layers |
3/4"
x 7" x 9 1/2" |
1 |
| Magnetic
catch |
|
1 |
Lid
layers |
3/4"
x 5" x 7 1/2" |
1 |
| |
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Lid
layers |
3/4"
x 3" x 5 1/2" |
1 |
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Ball
top |
2
1/2" dia. |
1 |
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