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May 2004 - How We Saw It |
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Essential saws for your handtool collection |
Although these days their job is often usurped by power saws,
handsaws are still valued, not least for their beauty and the
soothing benefits of a good rip. Teeth design is the most important
element of a saw, both the shape and the size. Smaller teeth
are meant for finer work, while larger teeth give the satisfaction
of a fast, coarse cut. Traditionally, saws either “ripped”—cut
with the grain—or crosscut against the grain, but many
saws now have teeth that work in both directions. |
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1.
A flush-cut saw such as the Stanley allows you to make fine
cuts, such as trimming the ends of dowels ($20)
2. Ripsaws cut with the grain, such as this
handmade walnut-handled Lynx saw ($143, European Hand Tools,
888-222-8331)
3. With a dovetail saw, such as this rip-teeth
version from Lie-Nielsen, you can make fine cuts and tight,
clean joints ($163, Lie-Nielsen Canada, 877-967-5966)
4. Coping saws are for scrollwork and tight
curves, such as this Lee Valley model ($14)
5. For cutting veneer, use a veneer saw such
as this one from Canwood ($9)
6. An all-purpose handsaw such as this Bahco
is sometimes called a “toolbox saw” ($42)
7. A long, narrow keyhole saw such as this Mastercraft
cuts round holes for pipes or ducts ($15)
8. A double-edged Japanese ryoba saw can rip
and crosscut, such as this one from Bakuma ($40). |
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