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June 2003 - A Few Loose Screws |
| Still
much the same after almost 2,500 years |
The Pythagorean
philosopher Archytas of Tarentum (fifth century BC) is the alleged
inventor of the screw. But screws didn’t come into common
use until around the first century BC in the form of wooden
screws that were used in wine presses and olive oil presses—metal
screws and nuts didn’t appear until the 1400s (AD). Obviously
we’ve come a long way since then—most notably in
1908, when a Canadian by the name of P.L. Robertson shared his
square-drive design. It wouldn’t be until 28 years later
that an American, Henry F. Phillips, patented the Phillips screw. |
 Standard
wood screws (left) have a tapered head,
which makes for easy self-countersinking
Floor screws (middle)
function much like coarse-threaded wood screws but have
a double thread so they resist pullout better
Drywall screws (right)
are self-tapping and coarse-threaded, with a cylindrical
shaft that has proved to have many uses beyond its original
application |
Standard wood screws (left) should be
about three times as long as the thickness of the wood
that is being secured
Deck screws (middle)
are much like conventional screws, but are coated for
camouflage in pressure-treated wood
Round-head wood screws
(right) are best used for joining two flat surfaces—such
as sheet metal to wood |
 Hinge
screws (left) have a flat, shallow head
that allows them to be set flush
Brass screws (middle)
are soft, but they're corrosion-resistant and decorative
Screws with an aggressive thread
(right) are made to be driven quickly |
 Stainless
steel fasteners (left) are corrosion-resistant.
Depending on the thread, they can join metal or wood
Machine screws (middle)
fit into a nut or a tapped hole. They are essentially
a small bolt
Sheet metal screws
(right) have fine threads—also good for fastening
particleboards |
Spax screws (left) have a unique stepped
thread design allowing them to be driven without splitting
the stock—even into hardwood
Self-tapping Tapcon fasteners
(right) are coated for rust-resistance. You can
drive them into poured concrete, brick or block, but you
must predrill the holes first
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—
Douglas Thomson, photo by Daniel Harrison
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