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| by:
Iain Mitchell
photos: Roger Yip |
TIN CEILINGS - Guide |
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| 1
After the plan that incorporates each component of the
tin ceiling installation is drawn, Greer lays out the
tin pieces on the floor of the room to ensure all parts
are present. |
2
Install 1/4" plywood over the existing ceiling to
provide a nailing surface for the tin ceiling. The tin
panels get heavy, so make sure you screw the plywood securely
into the joists. |
3
Using a straightedge or chalkline, transfer the plan from
your drawing directly onto the plywood-covered ceiling.
Follow these guidelines to ensure the panels are installed
squarely. |
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| 4
Because ceilings vary in size, the filler strip is designed
to fill the area not covered by panels; specifically,
the area between the panels and the wall. Install to the
lines you drew. |
5
Each subsequent panel overlaps the previous one, working
away from the main light source or room entrance. The
panels are butted against the filler strip; the seam is
covered with moulding. |
6
Using tin snips, cut 45° mitres in the moulding, filler
and cornice pieces. Once you have cut a piece that makes
a good fit, use it as your template to cut remaining mitres. |
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| 7
Install the moulding over the seams between the panels
and the filler strip. This step is an ornamental flourish—so
it’s not absolutely necessary—but it looks great.
Moulding costs $10 per 4' strip. |
8
The last component, the cornice, is affixed to the wall
and ceiling. The cornice is installed over the filler
strip, and must be coped in the corners. Keep the bottom
edge parallel to the ceiling. |
9
Finally, if you intend to paint your tin ceiling, fill
the gaps between each of the components with latex caulk
to further enhance the illusion of plaster work. Prime
with Zinsser bonding primer. |
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