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1. Cut
away a section of downspout about 18" above the
top of a barrel—nine inches above ground for the
other options. Brace the pipe while cutting and strap
it to the wall if needed. |
2. You’ll
need a couple of elbows and a short length of downspout
to connect them to a rain barrel. The upper pieces fit
inside the lower ones. Seal them with caulking and screw
them in place. |
3. Lee
Valley Tools carries a diverter that fits into the downspout
and connects to the side of a barrel. You can also get
connectors to link multiple barrels for greater capacity.
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4. With
this particular style of barrel, rainwater is channelled
through a filter screen in the top. The clear hose is
for watering. The black hose on the right is for running
overflow to the lawn. |
5. Make
sure you cap off the standpipe. Plug the hole with a
ball of newspaper just below the pipe’s rim, then
fill it in with a small batch of concrete to permanently
seal the pipe. |
6. Perforated
plastic sleeves are the easiest to install. Wrap a foam
gasket around the spout, then pull the nylon strap tight
over the bag. It unfurls when it rains, then rolls back
out of the way. |
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7. Flexible
pipe is, well, the most flexible option. It expands
from 25" to 55", but the real advantage is
its ability to curve around obstacles. Secure it to
the downspout with two screws. |
8. A length
of downspout can be an obstacle when it’s time
to mow the lawn. A hinged elbow lets you flip the diverter
up and out of the way. Just don’t forget to put
it back down. |
9. If erosion
is a problem, you can buy readymade plastic or concrete
runoff pads to further disperse the water. Just place
them at the end of your standard or flexible diverters. |
PROJECTS
