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by
Jacques Doiron
photos by Roger Yip |
BATH WALL OVERHAUL |
| Installing
a tub surround is an easy afternoon upgrade |
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| ABOVE:
Plastic panels are fitted into place to provide
a watertight seal. BELOW: The new surround looks
clean and fresh. |
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Old tile
walls can really make a bathroom look unattractive—or
worse, they can leak—but adding a new plastic bathtub
surround is a simple solution for a clean, updated new look.
Properly installed, it’s also easy to maintain, and it
provides a watertight seal over areas of cracked or loose grout.
Tub surrounds can be installed
over drywall, plaster, tile...any solid, flat wall that’s
in good structural condition. If your existing wall is drywall,
make sure it’s the moisture-resistant type (often called
“greenboard”), which is made for use in damp areas.
If the walls are spongy from long-term
water damage, be prepared to repair the damaged area. Often
the damage is localized, which might mean replacing only a portion
of the wallboard or a stud or two. Be sure to allow the area
to dry before you install the new surround.
Tub-surround kits come with either
three or five pieces that overlap each other to compensate for
different dimensions (and slightly out-of-square walls). Be
sure to read the kit’s instructions before you leave the
store, because you’ll probably need to buy special panel
adhesive and colour-matched caulk.
Although some of the thicker tub-surround
remodelling kits that are made from fibreglass can be installed
directly over bare studs, the less expensive (approximately
$150) plastic retrofit kit we installed needs the support of
a solid wall behind it. |
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1. Old tiles with
cracked or missing grout will eventually leak and damage
the wall behind. Loose tiles need to be removed with
care—do as little damage to the wall as possible |
2. Any damaged
areas of the wall will need to be repaired. The panels
in most plastic shower-surround kits are thin enough
that even minor wall damage will show right through
them |
3. If you’ve
made any drywall repairs (or added any new drywall),
prepare the area by rolling on a coat of moisture-resistant
primer before applying the plastic panels that will
protect the wall |
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4. Determine the
location of the plumbing cutouts. This is a crucial
step. If the layout looks tricky, test with a cardboard
template, then transfer the cutout marks to the plastic
panel |
5. Use a spade
bit to drill the required holes in the panel. If you
don’t have the correct size of bit, you may be
able to cut these holes with a utility knife, depending
on the thickness of the material |
6. Trial-fit all
the panels in place without adhesive, ensuring they
are square and plumb and that they will fit tightly
with no gaps along the top or bottom. Trim them to size
where necessary |
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7. Starting with
the end-wall panels, apply the manufacturer’s
recommended panel adhesive. Be sure that the upper and
lower edges are covered with a continuous bead |
8. Lift the surround
panel into place and press it onto the wall. The bead
of adhesive may make a slight ridge, so while it’s
still soft, press down firmly with your hand to smooth
it out |
9. Screw on the
control handles and the spout. Apply a thin bead of
silicone caulking around these fixtures, as well as
a generous bead at the joint where the panels meet the
tub |
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