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by
Gary Walchuk
photos: Roger Yip
illustration: Len Churchill |
UNDER COVER (part 2) |
Tackling
the Tabletop
You will need to cut out 16 pieces of stock to make the top.
Start with the large and small top curve pieces, then use biscuits
or dowels and glue to connect them into a frame that measures
22 1/4" square inside. When the assembly is dry, tap a
22 1/4" piece of scrap wood across the centre, flush with
the frame’s surface. This temporary piece gives you a
place to affix the large compass or pencil and string you’ll
need to use when drawing a circle around the outside of this
frame. Make the radius 19". Mark the top, then cut it to
shape with a jigsaw or bandsaw.
Next, make another frame, this
time using the four top frame sides. Miter the ends, then biscuit-join
or dowel them together. The top squares and top triangles come
next. Prepare these parts now, then slice off any dried glue
that squeezed out of the top frames you’ve just made.
Begin assembling the top from
the inside out, but dry-fit the parts for now. I predrilled
small holes for 2 1/2" spiral finishing nails through the
top pieces and into the braces. Tap nails in just far enough
to hold all of the pieces in place for now. Make any adjustments
needed for a good fit. There should be a 1/8" space between
all parts.
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| CLICK
ABOVE TO ENLARGE ILLUSTRATION |
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I
found this assembly job worked best by starting with the 4 1/2"
squares fitted against the leg sides. Next, set the top triangles,
then the 22" square frame, followed by the outer frame.
After everything looks good, mark the location of each part,
remove them and paint the exposed edges. You have to do this
now because a brush won’t fit into the grooves later.
Finish by securing all parts using outdoor glue. Drive and countersink
the nails home.
Cut the top cleats to shape and
affix them under the tabletop with glue and nails. These support
the mating top parts. Secure them at a 45° angle to the
top bracing.
Cut the 19"-dia. top circle
from 3/4" exterior-grade plywood, then drill a hole through
the centre that will fit your umbrella. Attach this piece to
the leg tops, carefully centred, with countersunk screws. Plug
all screw holes, fill the nail holes and sand them flush.
Finish-sand, prime and paint the
project using the best exterior latex paint you can find. Add
four rubber or plastic glides to the bottom edges of the feet
to keep them off the patio surface, then open your umbrella
and enjoy!
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| You
will need: |
| PART |
MATERIAL |
SIZE |
QTY. |
| Top
braces |
spruce |
1
1/2" x 2" x 36" |
4 |
| Bottom
braces |
spruce |
1
1/2" x 3 1/2" x 34" |
4 |
| Legs |
spruce |
1
1/2" x 6" x 23 3/4" |
4 |
| Feet |
spruce |
1
1/2" x 4 1/2" x 10 1/4" |
4 |
| Top
curve small |
spruce |
1
1/2" x 9" x 22 1/4" |
2 |
| Top
curve large |
spruce |
1
1/2" x 9" x 33" |
2 |
| Top
frame sides |
spruce |
1
1/2" x 3 1/2" x 22" |
4 |
| Top
squares |
spruce |
1
1/2" x 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" |
4 |
| Top
triangles |
spruce |
1
1/2" x 5 1/8" x 10 1/4" |
4 |
| Top
cleats |
spruce |
1/2"
x 1 1/2" x 11" |
4 |
| Top
circle |
exterior
ply |
3/4"
x 19" diameter |
1 |
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| READ
PART 1 |
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