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by
Gary Walchuk
photos: Roger Yip
illustration: Len Churchill |
UNDER COVER |
| Enjoy
lunch on the patio with this extra-sturdy umbrella table |
Relatively
easy and inexpensive to build, this umbrella table is the perfect
size for a gathering of friends at a summertime lunch. The design
and materials are on the heavy side, making this a sturdy outdoor
project with the weight and footprint to support a large umbrella,
even in a moderately brisk wind. I tested it extensively to
be sure it was up to the job.
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| Cool
times under your umbrella are just around the corner
with this easy-to-build table design that's strong
enough to face rain and a strong breeze |
|
This
table’s elevated top circle is a handy spot for extra
snacks, and it also provides support for the umbrella. When
you’re shopping for an umbrella, look for a 6 1/2'- to
7'-dia. model, with a shaft that’s 1 1/2" in diameter
or less.
With the exception of the circular
tabletop, the table is made entirely from some well-chosen 2x10
construction-grade spruce planks. You can find suitable wood
if you select kiln-dried, straight, flat boards with nothing
more than small, tight knots. Even if your wood is officially
stamped “kiln-dried” it will need drying indoors.
I bought my wood ahead of time and stored it in a heated space
while it dried.
It’s also worthwhile to sand both sides of each board
with an 80-grit belt sander before you cut out the parts. Presanding
makes the finished project paint-ready, speeding up the building
process.
Build the Base
Begin by cutting the top and bottom braces to size, noting the
55° bevels at each end. Make sure that 1/2" at the
bottom corner of the bottom braces remains square, since pointed
ends would soon break. Mark the middle of each part, then lay
out the two 1 1/2"-wide notches you need to cut into each
brace. The plans include the details you need to follow here.
Clamp the braces in pairs as you work, notching the top edge
of one pair and the bottom edge of another. The idea is to have
alternating notches in the upper and lower brace pairs so they
interlock, half-lap style.
Cut the legs to size and, on the
outside top end of each one, make a notch three inches wide
and 6 3/4"-long. Cut the feet to size, making 55° bevels
at the outside corners, 1/2" up from the bottom edges.
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| Two
tiers of serving space come from the tabletop, made
from choice construction-grade spruce, and top circle,
made of exterior-grade ply. Both are sealed with
exterior latex paint |
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| The
leg and base assembly provide solid support for
the two-tiered top. Non-slip grips added to the
feet to keep the table off the ground |
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Assembling
the base is easiest if you’ve taken the care to get the
joints correct. Use clamps, outdoor glue and #8 x 2 1/2"
corrosionproof screws. Drive these into predrilled, counterbored
screw holes. Start by laying one base support piece on your
work surface, inside face up. Next, apply two legs to this base
support, flush with the outside edges of the notches. The legs
should be 4 1/2" apart. Then, attach a foot at each end
of the brace, making sure that the top and bottom edges of the
feet extend 1/2" above and below the edges of the bottom
braces. Flip the assembly over and apply the second brace, sandwiching
the legs and feet.
Next, stand the assembly upright
and slip one opposite brace into the group, fitting the notches
together. Apply screws from below to secure the pieces notch
to notch, then add the other two legs and feet to the inside
surface of this brace. Finally, tap the remaining brace in place,
interlocking the notches and sandwiching the parts as before.
Join all four top braces together
by fitting the notches at the centre. Use four screws to secure
the braces in an X shape. Slide this assembly downward from
the leg tops until the brace top edges are flush with the upper
surface of the notches you cut in the legs. Measure, square
up and clamp the top braces to the legs perfectly, then use
#8 x 2 1/2" screws and outdoor glue to secure everything
together.
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PART 2 |
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