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by
Dave Bond
photos: Roger Yip
illustration: Len Churchill |
UKRAINIAN BENCH (part 2) |
As
you rout the reeding, you’ll need to change the bullnose
cutter height to create the adjacent bullnose profiles. Start
by adjusting the bit so the top edge of its curved profile is
one inch above the table. Run the rail pieces through on both
long edges, then shut down and unplug your router. Next, lower
the cutter so the bottom edge of the profile you just milled
is aligned perfectly with the top edge of the cutter in its
new, lower position. Precise height adjustment here is critical
too, and that’s where your scrap piece of wood comes in.
When you think you have the bullnose bit height spot-on, try
it on your scrap just to be sure. When it looks right, run your
rail pieces through again, on both long edges as before.
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| The
top of the front legs features a simple curved detail,
a nice spot to grasp when you're emerging from a
rest on the bench |
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| The
whimsical side and back scrolls reflect the Ukrainian
love of ornamentation. Cut them to shape from the
templates in the plans |
|
The
side and back scroll pieces are decorative, so make them from
3/8"-thick wood. You can draw the shaped profiles on graph
paper following the grid diagram on next
page, (you can download a full-size template).
Print multiple copies, glue one to each piece of wood using
rubber cement, then saw along the outline before you remove
the paper. You may need to do some sanding to remove the glue
and paper residue afterward.
Next come the seat slats. Mill
them to their final size: 7/8" x 3 7/8" x 13 7/8",
then prepare 3/8" x 7/16" rabbets on both long edges.
You’ll find a table-mounted router is an excellent tool
for these rabbets, although you could use a tablesaw too. The
seat slats rest on seat support strips applied to the inside
surfaces of the front and back rails. Prepare these supports
now, making them 7/8" x 7/8" x 39 3/4".
Legs and Mortises
Aside from being tapered, the legs also include a number of
mortises. These support tenons on the ends of the side, front
and back rails, as well as the arms. The plans show all critical
dimensions for mortise size and location, but a few tips will
help. The uppermost mortises on all four legs support the arms.
Note that the mortises for the front legs must only be 1 1/4"
deep, allowing room for shaping the top of the front legs.
Arms, Rails and Tenons
When you’ve cut mortises in the legs, it’s time
to cut matching tenons. As with any project that supports substantial
weight, tight joinery is essential for strength. That’s
why you need to take your time to get a snug fit between mortises
and tenons. I find it easiest to cut tenons like these on the
tablesaw, using a mitre gauge with an extra-high fence to define
the shoulders. The majority of the tenons are 1/2"-thick
x 2"-tall x 1 1/2"-long, except for the tenons on
the arms. These are only one inch tall. The tenons on the back
of the arms are 1 1/2" long; those on the front are 1 1/4"
long to fit the shallow mortises that allow for the front leg’s
curved shape.
The only other complication is
the tenons on the top back rail. Left on their own, these will
interfere with the arm tenons. That’s why you need to
notch them so the tenons interlock within the legs.
Dry-Fitting
With your mortise-and-tenon joints cut, bring the parts together
for a test run without glue. Start by assembling the side rails
and arms. I laid these out on a piece of carpet on my shop floor,
then inserted the back rails and seat rails into the side section.
Next, cap off the rails with the other preassembled side components.
Carefully roll the bench onto its legs and draw the joints tight
with clamps. Turn the bench onto its back again, then place
the scrolled cutouts directly onto the top and mid-back rails,
centred on their edges.
The plans show how the decorative
side and back scroll pieces fit into small notches. These are
1/4" deep, located in the legs, top back rail and mid-back
rail. Mark these now, then take everything apart, cut the notches,
and get ready for final assembly.
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PART 1 | PART 2 | PART
3 |
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