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by
Ken Tunnard
photos: Tracy Cox
illustration: Len Churchill |
TABLE FOR TWO (part 2) |
Elegant
Aprons
Cut the aprons to length, then draw an arc shape along each
bottom edge. Start by marking a point in the centre of an apron,
3" up from the bottom edge. Next, bend a piece of thin
wood or other flexible material from the end of the apron to
the point in the centre, then back down again. Trace the arc
with a pencil, then cut it out using a jigsaw, scrollsaw or
bandsaw. Clean up the saw marks by hand or with a drum sander
mounted in a drillpress. If you like, you can add a small detail
on the bottom outside edge of each apron, using a table-mounted
router with a 1/8" radius roundover bit.
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| Using
pre-turned legs for this table speeds up the entire
process and adds character to the overall project. |
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Next, biscuit-join the aprons and legs together with two #20
biscuits centred in each joint. No biscuit joiner in your shop?
Dowel joints are a great alternative, and all you need to make
them is a drill bit, some fluted dowels, and a couple of aluminum
dowel centres to mark hole locations.
The corner blocks sit right at the corners where the aprons
meet the legs. These strengthen the table and keep it square.
They also give you something to fasten the tabletop to later.
Cut the corner blocks from soft maple off-cuts—90º
in one corner and 45º on the others, with the inner corner
cut back to accommodate the leg. Instead of typical screw holes,
I used my router with a straight bit to create oval slots for
the screws. I oriented these perpendicular to the wood grain
of the tabletop. The oval shape allows the top to expand and
contract with seasonal changes in humidity—an important
detail whenever you’re working with large expanses of
solid wood.
Fasten the corner blocks with glue and screws so they sit 1/16"
below the top edges of the aprons. This allows the top to be
pulled down tightly to the aprons as you drive in the screws
after finishing.
Gently round the edges of the top with either a block plane
or a sanding block. This small detail helps the wood finish
stick better, and makes for a more comfortable tabletop to lean
on.
Next, glue up the table legs and aprons. I cut small V-shaped
clamping blocks from plywood to protect the outside corners
of the assembly under clamping pressure. These blocks also help
keep the base square as the glue is drying. You can keep them
around for assembling other projects later.
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ABOVE TO ENLARGE ILLUSTRATION |
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Done Like Dinner
Prepare the wood for finishing by sanding with 120-, 150- and
180-grit paper, removing dust with a tack cloth or vacuum between
each step. Polyurethane (either water- or oil-based) works
well because it enhances wood grain and protects the surface.
Apply at least three coats, or four if you want extra durability.
When the finish is dry, fasten the tabletop with #8 x 1 1/4"
screws driven up through the corner blocks.
Set out some chairs and celebrate your handiwork with a good
meal.
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PART 1 | PART 2 |
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