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by
Adrian Jones
photos: Tracy Cox
illustration: Len Churchill |
ELEGANT PATIO SET (part 4) |
Tabletop Assembly
The tabletop is framed with four identical pieces, joined at
the corners with mortise-and-tenons. Each piece has a tenon
on one end and a mortise at the other, so the whole assembly
has to be glued together at the same time. The mortise is inset
to accommodate the curve cut into each outer frame side.
Mill all of the wood for the top,
then prepare the frame using that dado blade again to create
the tenons. Carefully dry-fit the frame, bringing all joints
together at the same time.
Use your drawing bow again to
lay out the curve on the outer edges of one of the frame pieces.
Cut the curve with a bandsaw or jigsaw, then sand or plane the
surfaces smooth. Transfer this curve to the other pieces and
extend the curve to the mortised end of the adjoining parts.
Cut the curves on all frame pieces, sand them smooth, then reassemble
the frame. Join the parts with outdoor glue, then clamp them
tight. Measure and equalize the diagonals to ensure the frame
is square, then set it aside to dry.
When the glue has cured, sand
the top frame smooth and rout a 1/4" roundover profile
on the outer edges. Lightly relieve the inner edges with sandpaper.
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| CLICK
ABOVE TO ENLARGE ILLUSTRATION |
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The
tabletop slats sit on three support rails: two opposite each
other at the edges and one in the centre. These support rails
are cut to fit inside the top frame, providing a lip to which
the slats are glued and screwed. Measure the inside dimensions
of the frame and then cut the three top slat rails 1 1/2"
longer than this length. Use a dado blade to cut the 3/4"-long
rabbets on all ends and 1/2" rabbets on the sides of the
two side rails. Glue the side rails underneath the tabletop
frame, but leave the middle one off for now.
Lay the middle support rail in
the middle of the frame and mark its location there. Next, centre
the middle support rail on a pair of legs and drill a pair of
pilot holes through it and into each leg. Countersink the holes
and secure the support to the legs with a dab of glue. Install
a leg top brace in the same direction as the middle support
rail, sitting on the top of the other two legs. Pre-drill, glue
and screw in a similar manner. Give everything a final sanding
and coat with the Danish oil.
Cut the top slats to length so
they fit gap-free into the frame while resting on the side rails,
then apply oil to the top and sides of the slats and frame.
Glue the slats in place with proper spacing (I used stir sticks)
and clamp them flat.
Give the top a final sanding and
apply a couple of additional coats of oil. Fasten the top to
the legs and drill pilot holes into either side of each leg
brace and into the ends of the middle support rail. Countersink
and screw each into place with a dab of glue under each slat.
Sand the completed table and finish as you did with the chairs.
Once the whole set is dry, you won’t want to give up your
seat anytime soon! |
| YOU
WILL NEED |
| FOR
EACH CHAIR |
SIZE
(T x D x L*) |
QTY. |
| Front
legs |
1
1/4" x 1 1/4" x 39 1/2" |
2 |
| Rear
legs |
1
1/4" x 1 1/4" x 35" |
2 |
| Face
seat rails |
1
3/4" x 1 3/4" x 19 1/2" |
2 |
| Side
seat rails |
2
1/2" x 3/4" x 14 3/4" |
2 |
| Face
lower rails |
3/4"
x 1 1/4" x 19 1/2" |
2 |
| Side
lower rails |
3/4"
x 1 1/4" x 14 3/4" |
2 |
| Back
uprights |
1
1/4" x 3 3/8" x 13 5/8" |
2 |
| Seat
slats |
3/4"
x 2 7/8" x 18 3/8" |
5 |
| Back
slats |
3/4"
x 2 3/8" x 15 3/8" |
5 |
| Screw
cleats |
3/4"
x 3/4" x 13 3/16" |
2 |
| Armrests |
1
3/4" x 1 1/4" x 20 3/4" |
2 |
| FOR
THE TABLE |
| Legs |
1
1/4" x 1 3/4" x 39 1/2" |
4 |
| Leg
rails |
3/4"
x 1 1/4" x 18" |
4 |
| Tabletop
frames |
1
1/16" x 2" x 30" |
4 |
| Side/mid
slat support rails |
3/4"
x 1 1/2" x 28 1/2" |
3 |
| Top
slats |
11/16'
x 2" x 27" |
12 |
| Top
leg braces |
3/4"
x 1 3/4" x 2" |
2 |
| *
Length indicates grain direction. All parts are white
oak |
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PART 1 | PART 2 | PART
3 | PART 4 |
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