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by
Adrian Jones
photos: Tracy Cox
illustration: Len Churchill |
ELEGANT PATIO SET (part 3) |
Give
it a Rest
The armrests are shaped from 1 3/4"-wide white oak and
extend between the front and back legs with a shallow convex
curve. Mill wood to thickness and trace the curve from the template
onto your oak. Cut on the waste side of the line using a bandsaw
before using the same template to draw the inside curve 3/8"
below the other. Sand the surfaces smooth, then roundover the
inside and outside edges with a 1/4" bearing-guided bit
in a table-mounted router.
While the table and chairs are
a standard bar height, not all family and friends are “standard.”
That’s why you should consider the height of those who
will be using the chairs most. People between 5' and 5'3"
will be more comfortable if you lower the armrests and table
height by 1 1/2". Before you add the armrests, try the
heights, then fine-tune the length of the legs to match.
Position the armrests on the legs
so that two inches protrudes from behind the rear leg, at the
point where the backrest uprights change angle. Mark the angle
that the armrest crosses the legs, then trim the legs with a
fine-tooth handsaw. Reposition the armrest on the legs now,
then mark the place where the armrest needs a notch to fit around
the rear leg. Cut this notch with the saw and chisel to 1/4"
deep. Use a small flat file to adjust the notch for a snug fit.
Join the armrests to the legs
with a countersunk and plugged screw driven down from the top.
Centre the notched armrests on the legs and drill a counterbored
pilot hole for #8 x 1 1/4 screws.
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| The
solid table design is made from durable, weather-resistant
white oak, strong mortise-and-tenon joinery and
stable geometry. The tabletop has ample space for
food and beverages, and drains well in the rain
(or whenever guests spill their drinks!) |
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Finish the Chairs
Sand your chairs up through 120-, 180- and 220-grit sandpaper,
then clean up the dust in preparation for finishing. I used
Danish oil. It adds a beautiful depth to the appearance and
is easy to repair. A quick wipe covers scratches and scuff marks.
Build the Matching Table
The table is constructed similarly to the chairs, but it’s
built with a combination of mortise-and-tenons, half-lap joints
and glued-and-screwed assemblies.
The table’s legs are joined
with upper and lower rails that interlock as they cross with
half-lap joints. Mill the wood for the legs and cross rails
at the same time to keep them matching. With your stock ready,
lay out mortises on the legs and prepare them as you did with
the chairs. All of the mortises are 1/2"-wide, one inch
long and 1 1/16"-deep.
As before, use a dado blade in
your tablesaw to cut the leg rail tenons. Adjust settings after
cutting a piece of scrap first, sneaking up on the tenon width
and length to achieve a snug fit into the mortises you’ve
already made. When complete, your tenons should be one inch
long, 1/2"-thick and one inch tall.
Now it’s time to prepare
the half-lap joints that connect the cross rails to each other.
Adjust your dado blade again so it’s exactly half as high
as the thickness of the wood you’re using, then prepare
some test cuts in scrap. The goal is a half-lap joint that holds
together with friction, while adjoining surfaces are flush.
Test-fit the completed joints and adjust as necessary with a
file.
Use a 1/4" roundover bit
again to profile the edges and bottom ends of the four legs.
Dry-fit the two pairs of cross-rails, and while they’re
together, round them over too. Sand all parts smooth and apply
a coat of finish everywhere except the joints and leg tops.
Glue up the assembly and stand it on a smooth, flat surface.
Clamp the assembly square before setting it aside.
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PART 1 | PART 2 | PART
3 | PART 4 |
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