|
|
 |
|
 |
| |
 |
|
|
| THIS OLD DOOR (part
2) |
| |
 |
 |
 |
| Remove
all hardware, repair any structural damages and seal your door
before installation. Paint conceals replacement wood or epoxy
filler better than stain |
Repair
or replace the threshold and level with shims. Wear- resistant
oak or ash make good threshold replacement stock |
Carefully
measure the door opening length and width before shopping for
a new door, especially if the structure is old or oddly shaped |
| |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
| Cut
the door with a rented power planer. Prevent splintering at
the end of the cut by clamping a piece of scrap along the door
side |
Install
strap hinges over the thickest, strongest part of the door,
in this case the horizontal battens that join the back door
boards |
Once
the door is actually swinging on its hinges, scribe the latch
side opening. Sheds are usually wonky, making door hanging a
cut-to-fit job |
| |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
| For
initial door cuts, its always better to leave extra and
cut again. Measure twice or youll be buying another door |
By
spending extra time measuring, youll save yourself hours
of frustration |
First
trim the door larger than required with a circular saw, then
finish the cut with a power planer. Paint the newly exposed
wood |
| |
|
|
| READ
PART 1 |
|
|
|
|
| FREE
NEWSLETTER |
Subscribe to our newsletter. Every few weeks, you'll get a behind-the-scenes
peek at the magazine, the web site and the folks who put it all together.
CLICK HERE |
|
|