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by
Steve Maxwell
photos: Donna Griffith
illustration: Len Churchill |
MISSION-STYLE TABLE SET (part 2) |
| There’s
a reason Arts and Crafts furniture never goes out of style |
Clean, refined linSince
end tables are usually built in pairs, it’s worth considering
a few production strategies before you start measuring and sawing.
You could simply build two tables at once, but you’d be
missing an opportunity if you did. By creating some jigs and
a permanent cutting list first, you’ll speed up your work
and improve the overall quality. And that sets the stage for
a nice little commercial sideline making limited production
runs of tables like these.
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| ABOVE:
Jigs for the legs and aprons will make the end table
duet easier to build. BELOW: Dovetail joints add
authentic Mission character |
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|
Professional
woodworkers often do three things that you don’t see in
home shops: they regulate operations with jigs and fixtures;
they speed up cutting with orderly, permanent parts lists; and
they adopt an all-at-once approach to building.
Even
though there aren’t many curves on these tables, consider
making a pattern routing template out of Baltic birch plywood
to help with the curved rails. A pattern like this is an exact
replica of the curved rail part. It guides the travel of a bearing-equipped
flush-trimming bit to reproduce the part in the wood. (See page
43 of the April 2002 issue for details.) This may seem like
a redundant idea but it saves a lot of error-prone sanding time.
You should also consider a jig to hold the legs and regulate
the biscuit slot-cutting operation. The leg piece should fit
between strips of wood nailed to a plywood base, while the biscuit
joiner
nestles between an opening in the strips to cut the slots. Drop
the leg in place, put your joiner into position, then plunge
away, with no need for marking or measuring.
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| CLICK
ABOVE TO ENLARGE |
|
Label all
your jigs in bold print using a permanent marker, and prepare
a workshop cutting list on a piece of scrap 1/4" ply. Work
through the list from beginning to end. This process also guarantees
that you’ll have enough material. |
| You
will need: |
| For
the inner box |
Material |
Size |
Qty. |
| Top |
oak |
7/8"
x 19 1/2" x 22" |
2 |
| Legs |
oak |
1
3/4" x 1 3/4" x 23 1/8" |
8 |
| Back
aprons |
oak |
3/4"
x 5 1/2" x 16 1/2" |
2 |
| Side
aprons |
oak |
3/4"
x 5 1/2" x 14 1/2" |
4 |
Top/bottom
drawer
face rails |
oak |
7/8"
x 2" x 16 1/2" |
4 |
| Side
stiles |
oak |
7/8"
x 2" x 3 3/4" |
4 |
| Curved
rails |
oak |
3/4"
x 2 1/2" x 16 1/2" |
2 |
| Drawer
front |
oak |
7/8"
x 3 5/8" x 14 3/4" |
2 |
| Drawer
sides |
oak |
5/8"
x 3 5/8" x 14 1/4" |
4 |
| Drawer
backs |
oak |
5/8"
x 3 5/8" x 13 7/8" |
2 |
| Bottom |
oak |
1/4"
x 14" x 14 15/16" |
2 |
| Short
tabletop cleats |
oak-veneered
ply |
7/8"
x 7/8" x 14 1/2" |
4 |
| Long
tabletop cleats |
oak |
7/8"
x 7/8" x 16 1/2" |
2 |
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| READ
PART 1 |
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