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by
Cathy Dalrymple
photos: Brenda Falvey
illustration: Len Churchill |
RECLINE IN THE SUMMERTIME (part 2) |
Next, drill all holes for the leg bolts and dowels. The plans
show where the parts go. I used a Forstner bit for this job
because it cuts such clean edges, although you could use a sharp
brad-point bit instead. You can now cut the dowel that fits
between the main stringers to length. Set the slats between
the stringers so you can measure the required dowel length exactly.
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| The
pull-out beverage tray is stabilized by levelling
strips (above). The back of the lounge chair reclines
at various angles, thanks to notches in the backrest
adjuster (below). This project was made entirely
with Douglas fir |
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Fasten
the legs to the stringers with 5/16"-dia. x 3" connecting
bolts that thread into metal inserts set into the wood. Install
the threaded inserts, test-fit the legs, then set them aside.
Now it’s time for glue.
I used a weatherproof glue for securing the slats, beginning
with those on one stringer first. Set them in place with biscuits,
then use your 1/2" plywood block to check and adjust spacing.
Adjust the slats so they’re all square to one stringer,
then let everything dry before repeating the process with the
other stringer.
You’ll find that this second
side takes a bit of patience, since the slats you put in want
to wiggle out as you work on the others. I fixed this problem
with a loose pipe clamp installed across the stringers at one
end of the frame. Tighten it slowly as you add slats and things
should go well. It also helps to keep a scrap of wood underneath
the slats, so they don’t fall down if their biscuits happen
to pull away from the wood.
Once all the slats are loosely
in place, persuade the one-inch dowel into place between the
stringers as a final assembly step. Clamp the lounge along its
length when all pieces are in position, checking again for spacing
and check for square before allowing the glue to dry.
The plans show the added support
strip required underneath the slats along each stringer. If
you’ve made your stringers curved, custom-cut the support
strip to match this shape using the stringer template as a guide.
Duplicating the assembly process
with the backrest will be a snap after the practice you’ve
had. When it’s dry, bolt the completed backrest to the
lounge stringers, as shown in the plans. With the main part
of the project finished, fasten the legs.
Next comes the adjustable backrest
prop assembly. Fasten the two adjuster pieces to either side
of the backrest using two-inch bolts and washers. The plans
show how the washers act as spacers, ensuring that the backrest
adjusters operate freely.
With these parts in place, measure
the distance between them and cut a length of dowel to go between
the parts. Be sure the adjusting unit is square to the backrest,
then secure the dowel with glue and one #6 x 1 1/2" screw
at each end.
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CLICK
THESE THUMBNAILS
FOR LARGER IMAGES |
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Now
it’s time to move on to the sliding table. Make up the
two L-shaped runner assemblies using the wide and narrow table
runner parts. The table surface itself is made using the same
method as the lounge, with slats connected to edge pieces. I
used glue and a brad nail gun shooting 1 1/2" fasteners
to attach the table edges and stiffeners to the table slats.
When the table is ready, clamp the L-shaped runners to the underside
of the lounge, then slip the table in place. When you’re
happy with the sliding action, mark the rail positions and remove
the assembly. You’ll need to attach the leveler pieces
to the runners before securing the assembly to the lounge. These
allow the table to pull out without tipping forward. Place the
levelers 1 1/2" back from the runner ends so they sit just
inside the stringers.
Whether you’re at home next
to the barbeque, at the cottage or eating peeled grapes while
discussing Plato, you’ll enjoy the fruits of your labour
relaxing on your own version of the kline lounger.
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PART 1 |
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