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By
RICK CAMPBELL
Photos by TRACY COX
Illustration by LEN CHURCHILL |
LAZY SUSAN (part 2) |
1. Steam and heat from a standard
household iron help coax the thin plies around the circular
form |
2. Mark the overlapping ply
on a 45° angle. The resulting scarf joint helps conceal
any gaps that might occur |
3. Hold the fixed end of the
web clamp using a C-clamp. Position the ratchet mechanism
over the joint |
4. Let the glue dry for a couple
of hours between strips. Dealing with one ply at a time
is easier than all at once |
Cutting the Plies
Virtually any species of wood can be coaxed around a lamination
form if the strips are cut thin enough. Straight-grained ash
or oak are my favourites. Select boards that are free of knots,
radical grain patterns or other defects that will weaken the
plies.
You'll need five strips in all, each measuring 1/8" x 1" x 72".
But since bending is always an unpredictable process, cut a
few extras in case of problems. You can prepare strips using
a well-tuned bandsaw equipped with a fence, or rip them on the
tablesaw as I did.
Cutting thin material with a tablesaw can be dangerous without
proper safety precautions. First of all, use a zero-clearance
insert around the blade to stop the thin plies from slipping
down next to the spinning blade after they're cut. Also, use
push sticks to keep fingers safely away from the blade. This
is a good safety practice even when you're not making thin material.
Finally, use feather boards to keep the stock firmly against
the fence and flat on the table, eliminating a potential distraction
that could divert your attention from the task at hand. If you've
got access to a thickness planer, you'll find it worthwhile
cutting your plies slightly thicker than necessary, then planing
down to finished size. The smooth surface and absolutely consistent
thickness will lead to tighter ply-to-ply joints when it comes
time for gluing.
Steam Bending
Steam relaxes the cell structure of wood, allowing it to bend
with less resistance. This makes strips easier to work with
and much less likely to break. Steam bending thick material
requires special equipment and a lot of time, but for thinner
stock, the job can be completed in a few minutes using a standard
household iron, a damp cloth and a simple shop-made steaming
form.
Begin by cutting the steaming form from a single piece of 3/4"
MDF using your bandsaw or jigsaw. The jig is simply a half-round
form with a notched protrusion to hold the end of the strips.
Since the steaming form is only used for initial bending, and
not final forming, edges don't need to be cut precisely with
a router.
When it's cut, clamp the steaming form upright in a bench vise
and select your first strip for bending. Begin with a damp cloth
draped over the form. Place one end of your strip in the notch
and bend the strip tightly over the form, then fold the cloth
over top. Now run a hot iron back and forth along the cloth,
pressing firmly against the strip as you go. After two or three
passes remove the cloth and run the iron directly on the strip
to evaporate any moisture. Repeat the procedure working your
way along the entire length of the strip. This process is more
effective if you steam each strip just prior to use.
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| 1
- Lazy Susan | 2 - Cutting
The Plies | 3 - Fitting And Gluing |
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