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by
Steve Maxwell
photos: Roger Yip
illustration: Len Churchill |
FLOOR CABINET (part 2) |
Veneered
Top
| CARVING
YOUR NICHE |
The
incised carving in the door is easier to make than
it looks. Start with a compass and draw a 2 3/4"-rad.
circle. Next, move the compass point to the top
of the circle (don’t change the radius setting)
and scribe an arc from one side of the circle to
the other. Move the point of the compass again,
this time to one of the intersection points around
the outer circle, and draw another arc. Continue
moving and drawing this way until all the petals
are complete.
 Open
the compass to 3 3/4" and draw another series
of arcs from the same pivot points at the outer
tip of each petal. Make these arcs short, though,
so they form the two sides of each incised triangle.
Finish the layout by drawing a 2 1/4"-rad.
circle from the centre of the pattern to define
the outer side of each triangle, and a second outer
circle 3/16" larger than the first.
For carving you’ll
need three tools: a 45° V-shaped parting tool;
a 3/8"-wide #5 gouge; and a 3/8" skew
chisel. Start by defining the outer circle with
your parting tool, always staying between the two
circular lines. Next, chisel grooves along the centre
of each petal, running from the centre to the outer
edge of the circle. Widen these grooves with vertical
cuts down toward the centre of the petal using the
gouge. Alternate back and forth between the parting
tool and the gouge, continually deepening and widening
each petal until they are nearly as deep as they
are wide. Complete the triangles in a similar way,
then sand the area around the carving to remove
stray layout lines. |
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Build the
top starting with an oversized piece of cabinet-grade plywood.
Cover the plywood with 1/4"-thick solid wood veneer sliced
on a tablesaw. Edge glue the veneer together and apply to the
plywood base with more glue. Once dry, trim the top to size
and add the mitred top trim. Secure this with glue and clamps,
then after the glue has dried, plunge slots for #20 biscuits
across the bottom faces of the joints. Secure the top to the
cabinet with more biscuits or dowels before adding the top cove
moulding.
Apply the Mouldings
Mouldings add visual interest to the cabinet. Add them to the
foot base, skirt, bullnose door opening trim and top cove moulding.
I milled my own mouldings, with the exception of the top cove.
Use a combination of moulding profiles that makes sense with
your router bit collection.
Applying the mouldings is standard
cabinet work; proceed around the cabinet, taking measurements
as you go and cutting all the moulding pieces to size. Fasten
the mouldings with glue and as few nails as possible.
Make the Door
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| CLICK
ABOVE TO ENLARGE |
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Measure the
door opening and add 1/8" to the width and length. Build
the rails, stiles and panel to suit. If you plan on carving
the door panel (See “Carving Your Niche,” above),
practice on some scrap first. Carve the panel before beveling
the panel edges. That way, if you do mess up, you won’t
lose as much. Once completed, plane the oversize door to the
final size for a perfect fit.
Finishing
To duplicate my blue, antiqued finish, start by applying a coat
of medium-brown stain. Once dry, add two coats of blue milk
paint. Simulate worn areas by rubbing through to the underlying
brown. Seal the whole finish with two coats of water-based urethane,
sanding lightly between each. |
| You
will need: |
| For
the inner box |
Material |
Size |
Qty |
| Inner
bottom, top, shelf |
birch
ply |
3/4"
x 10 1/2"* x
15 3/8" |
3 |
| Inner
sides |
birch
ply |
3/4"
x 10 1/2" x 35" |
2 |
| Inner
back |
birch
ply |
1/4"
x 17" x 35" |
1 |
| For
the door |
| Door
panel |
pine |
3/4"
x 10 1/2" x 24 5/8" |
1 |
| Top
door rail |
pine |
3/4"
x 2 1/4" x 9 3/4" |
1 |
| Bottom
door rail |
pine |
3/4"
x 2 3/4" x 9 3/4" |
1 |
| Door
stiles |
pine |
3/4"
x 2 1/4" x 29 1/8" |
2 |
| Bullnose
edging |
pine |
1/4"
x 7/8" x 96"** |
1 |
| For
the outer frame |
| Front
corner stiles |
pine |
3/4"
x 1 3/4" x 35" |
2 |
| Side,
back corner stiles |
pine |
3/4"
x 2" x 35" |
6 |
| Side
rails |
pine |
3/4"
x 2" x 7 7/8" |
4 |
| Side
panels |
pine |
3/4"
x 8 5/8" x 30 1/4" |
2 |
| Front,
back rails |
pine |
3/4"
x 2" x 14 3/4" |
4 |
| Back
panel |
pine |
3/4"
x 14 7/8" x 30 1/4" |
1 |
| Back,
front base skirts |
pine |
5/8"
x 2 5/8" x 19 1/2" |
2 |
| Back,
front base caps |
pine |
7/16"
x 3/4" x 19 1/4" |
2 |
| Back,
front base feet |
pine |
5/8"
x 3" x 20 1/2" |
2 |
| Side
base skirts |
pine |
5/8"
x 2 5/8" x 13 1/8" |
2 |
| Side
base caps |
pine |
7/16"
x 3/4" x 12 3/4" |
2 |
| Side
base feet |
pine |
5/8"
x 3" x 14" |
2 |
| Top
base |
ply |
3/4"
x 10 3/4" x 17 1/8" |
1 |
| Top
veneer |
pine |
3/16"
x 10 3/4" x 17 1/8" |
1 |
| Side
top trim |
pine |
3/4"
x 1 1/2" x 14" |
2 |
| Front,
back top trim |
pine |
3/4"
x 1 1/2" x 20 1/4" |
2 |
| Front,
back cove mould. |
pine |
3/4"
x 3/4" x 19 1/2" |
2 |
| Side
cove moulding |
pine |
3/4"
x 3/4" x 13 1/4" |
2 |
*
width includes solid wood edging
** total length required |
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| READ
PART 1 |
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