|
|
 |
|
|
| |
 |
|
|
by
Jerry Weber
photos: Donna Griffith |
CHEVAL MIRROR |
| Refine
your reflection with the smooth lines of this cherry mirror |
This project began when a customer commissioned me to design
a cheval mirror as a Christmas present for his fiancée.
It turned out to be a great opportunity to create an artistic
piece of furniture and a convenient way to make a second mirror
as a Christmas gift for my wife. The attention-getting final
piece is a great way to show off your skills.
 |
Careful sanding will perfect this mirror’s
graceful curves. Accentuate its natural colour
with three coats of tung oil topped with paste
wax |
|
While
looking for design references, I discovered that no store-bought
cheval mirror was pleasing to me: they all seemed heavy and
clumsy. Function and low price were the selling features, but
I wanted a mirror that’s exquisite to look at. Then a
reproduction project of mine—a Victorian arrow-back washstand—gave
me an idea.
I thought the smooth curves of
the washstand’s support arms would make a beautiful mirror.
I’d also saved some curly cherry, but only enough for
the mirror frame. I wanted to apply a clear oil finish, so I
excluded the blonde sapwood often found along the edge of cherry
planks.
The Templates
For each part of the mirror I made a tracing template using
1/8"-and 1/4"-thick medium-density fibreboard (MDF).
If you use this for your templates instead of cardboard you
will have a long-lasting template. Using MDF also allows you
to practise shaping your profiles in expendable wood before
starting on your precious lumber.
Refer to the plans and make your
templates. Wherever you need a flat edge, use the machined edge
of the MDF sheet. This saves work and boosts accuracy. Cut out
the templates using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Cut close to the
pencil lines but don’t remove them—they are your
only reference when doing your final shaping. The more care
you take in cutting a clean smooth line, the less sanding you’ll
need to do in final shaping.
 |
ABOVE: take the time to ensure you drill straight
holes for the mirror’s pivot bolts
BELOW: Place a shim under the support arms when
gluing them to the feet to prevent wobbling |
 |
|
Next,
sand the templates down to the layout lines. I used the open
spindle of an edge sander and an oscillating spindle sander
for tight spots. A drillpress with a drum-sanding attachment
also works. Sand flat areas by hand or with a random-orbit sander.
You can even put one on a hand drill or the end of a belt sander
rigged up on your workbench. Keep your sandpaper clean and sharp.
Do the heavy work with 80-grit paper, then finish up with 120-grit
paper. I also used a flexible strip of wood wrapped with sandpaper
on stubborn spots.
Notes on Technique
Make sure you keep the wood moving on the sanding machines:
if you stop, you’ll gouge the profile. Maintain a fluid
line by sighting down the edge for subtle bumps. Running your
fingers along the edge helps, too. The pencil line is a guide
for making a smooth line, but you can also trust your eye.
Milling the Components
You’re ready for the real thing. Lay the templates on
the wood and adjust their position to find the right grain orientation
before you trace out the pattern.
First, mill each part down to
final thickness. Many of these boards are short, so mill them
in double lengths. If the part is only 10" long, cut a
20"-long board to yield two pieces. I always joint the
faces one face first, then plane to thickness to be sure everything
is flat.
|
| FOR
THE COMPLETE PROJECT INSTRUCTIONS, CHECK OUT THE WINTER 2003
ISSUE OF THE MAGAZINE OR SUBSCRIBE
NOW |
|
|
|
|
| FREE
NEWSLETTER |
Subscribe to our newsletter. Every few weeks, you'll get a behind-the-scenes
peek at the magazine, the web site and the folks who put it all together.
CLICK HERE |
|
|
PROJECTS
