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By
KONRAD SAUER
Photo by DAVE STARRETT
Illustration by LEN CHURCHILL |
THE MORE THINGS CHANGE (part 4) |
Konrad Sauer thicknesses rough-sawn stock by hand. Here
he uses a Stanley No. 604 smoothing plane with the mouth
wide open and the blade set to take a big bite |
Once the drawer sides, face and back are assembled,
the raised panel bottom is slid into place. No glue
is used here to allow for seasonal movement without
cracking |
The recessed sink area and the drawer case are divided by the
drawer divider. Cut a tenon on the back edge of the drawer divider
and a corresponding mortise in the rear rail—the
mortise-and-tenon in the back assembly is offset to allow room
for this mortise. Cut a blind dovetail where the drawer divider
meets the top front rail. Two final components complete the
drawer case: the bridge and the drawer runner. Cut the dovetails
which join the bridge to the drawer divider and side, then make
the notch which accepts the front stile. Cut tenons on the ends
of the drawer runner and fit them into mortises cut in the sink
bottom. At this point, dry fit everything you've built so far.
The Base
The main case sits on top of the base frame which in turn is
supported by the feet. The joint where the case meets the base
frame will be hidden later with the addition of shop-milled
cove moulding. Round over the outside edges of the base frame
members first then assemble the frame using mitred corners reinforced
with biscuits. To make the feet, enlarge the detail from the
plan and transfer it onto both sides of each foot blank. I cut
the feet by hand with a coping saw but you have access to a
bandsaw I suggest using it—you'll
preserve your sanity. Once cut, shape and smooth the feet with
sandpaper that's been glued to a length of 4" dia. ABS pipe.
Join the contoured foot sides together with through dovetails.
Cutting these is quite a challenge since the material is so
thick. Once they are assembled, attach the feet to the base
frame with glue and biscuits. Set the main case assembly on
the base assembly.
The Doors
With the main case assembled, the doors and door divider can
be put together and fitted. The frame-and-panel doors are built
the same way as the sides and back of the main case. The only
tricky part of building the doors is fitting the French-style
rabbeted overlap where the doors meet the door divider. Start
the door divider by rabbeting the edges that will accept the
doors. Now cut the decorative bead on each edge. Finally, chamfer
the edges of the door divider to allow the doors to swing freely.
The hinge edge of each door also gets a bead detail. This bead
balances the one on the door divider but more importantly hides
the barrel hinges. The hinges you use dictate the diameter of
the bead. Mortise the hinges using a sharp chisel and attach
them using brass screws. Drive steel screws of the same size
to make pilot holes, then install the softer brass screws.
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1
- Cherry Dry Sink | 2
- You Will Need | 3 - Construction,
part 1
4 - Construction, part 2
| 5
- Construction, part 3 |
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