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By
KONRAD SAUER
Photo by DAVE STARRETT
Illustration by LEN CHURCHILL |
THE MORE THINGS CHANGE (part 3) |
A roundover on the base frame transitions to a cove
detail of the same proportions and is echoed again in
the corner bead detail |
THE FLUSH-faced drawer runs smoothly without mechanical
fasteners. Blind dovetails join the drawer sides to
the face |
While the panel blanks are drying, mill the 1/4" dadoes in the
edge of the rails and stiles to house the panels. A table-mounted
router or tablesaw equipped with a narrow dado blade are the
best options for this operation. Regardless of the tool you
choose, make sure the grooves are perfectly centred.
Mortises and Tenons
Lay out and cut all the mortises first. There's lots, so a dedicated
mortising machine or a drill press fitted with a mortising attachment
makes sense. When all the mortises are complete, clean them
up with a sharp chisel. Now layout the tenons using one of the
mortises as a template. Make the shoulder cuts for the the tenons
first, then the cheek cuts. Use a tablesaw fitted with a tenoning
jig, or make multiple passes over a dado blade and remove the
waste with a chisel. Once all the tenons are cut, dry fit the
frames.
The Raised Panels
After the glued-up panel blanks are dry, remove any hardened
squeeze-out with a chisel. Dress the panel blanks using a smoothing
plane or well-tuned scraper. Square the panels to their final
dimensions and mark the profile of the raised panel on the edges.
The width of the raised edge is 1 1/4"—too
wide for a router and panel-raising bit to handle. I raised
all of the panels by hand, using a Stanley No. 78 plane with
both fences installed to define the shoulders. Plane the end
grain edges first, followed by the long grain edges. That way
any end grain tearout will be removed when the edges parallel
to the grain are planed. If raising panels with a table-mounted
router is your preference, consider reducing the width of the
profile and using a vertical panel-raising bit. Dry fit the
frames and panels that make up the sides and back. Completed
panels should float freely in their frames without being sloppy.
The Cabinet Corners
The front and back stiles are attached to side stiles to create
the corners of the cabinet. These joints will be edge glued
together with biscuits for strength and alignment. Before the
corners come together mill a roundover on the stiles using a
router, a hand plane or a dedicated moulding plane. The roundover
is 3/4" dia. quarter-round cut 1/8" deep, and is stopped before
reaching each end of the stile. Cut the biscuit slots before
milling the roundover so that the biscuit joiner's fence will
have a square surface to register on. Dry fit the sides and
back together but don't glue anything yet.
The Bottom
I used antique pine for the bottom because it was cheaper than
cherry (a detail which isn't out of place in antique dry sinks
for the same reason). The bottom is attached to the sides with
through dovetails where it meets the end rails. This dovetailed
joint will be hidden by the applied cove moulding later on.
Cut the tails first on the ends of the bottom and use them to
mark the pins on the bottom of the sides. Use a dovetail saw,
a coping saw and a series of chisels to make all the dovetails.
The Sink Bottom
The sink bottom has tenons on the ends which fit into the side
stiles and a rabbet on the back edge which fits into a dado
in the rear rail. Square up and dress the blank for the sink
bottom. Make the end joints by cutting the mortises in the side
stiles first and then use them to mark the tenons on the end
of the sink bottom. Use a dovetail saw, a coping saw and chisels
to complete these tenons. Cut the rabbet in the back edge of
the sink bottom and assemble the sides, bottom panel and sink
bottom together. Position the back in place and mark the position
of the dado on the rear rail that corresponds to the rabbet
on the back edge of the sink bottom. Cut this dado and dry fit
all the case components you've built so far. With the case fitted
together, mark the notches that allow the face of the front
stiles to fit flush with the in the front edge of the sink bottom.
Cut these notches with a dovetail saw.
|
1
- Cherry Dry Sink | 2
- You Will Need | 3 - Construction,
part 1
4 - Construction, part 2
| 5
- Construction, part 3 |
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