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by
Rick Campbell
photos by Yvonne Duivenvoorden
illustration by Len Churchill |
BUTCHER BLOCK ISLAND
(part
2) |
Top Drawer
Don’t rely on the drawer dimensions given in the plans—for
a precise fit, measure the opening and allow for a 1/16"
clearance on each side and 1/4" recess at the front.
Join the sides to the drawer face
with half-blind dovetails and the back corners with rabbets.
Any strong joint should work so long as the dimensions are correct.
Prepare the corner joints, then cut 1/4" grooves into the
sides and front for the plywood bottom panel. You may want to
rout the recess before assembling the drawer, in case of error.
Assemble the drawer with glue
and clamps. Cut the bottom to size and slide into place from
the back. Tap in a few finishing nails to connect the back edge
to the box.
The drawer glides along a pair
of L-shaped aluminum tracks screwed to the wooden drawer runner
cleats. These cleats shim the aluminum flush with the inside
face of the legs. Attach the runners to the spacers with #8
x 3/4" screws. Counterbore slightly below the surface.
Laminated Knife Block
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ABOVE TO ENLARGE |
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Make the
knife block from several layers of wood laminated together.
Cut a 5" x 8" blank for each layer, then taper the
top and front edges of each. Cut knife slots parallel to the
front edges with a dado blade set 1/8"-deep. Glue the block
together with clamps and waterproof adhesive. Sand the knife
block after the glue dries.
Fasten the knife block to the
island, using knockdown hardware so it can be easily removed
for cleaning or repair. Knockdown hardware consists of bolts
with wide, flat heads and metal inserts with threads cut on
both the inside and outside faces. The exterior threads sink
into the wood during installation, anchoring the insert solidly.
The internal threads accept bolts.
Clamp the block to the island
and drill small pilot holes for the bolts. Remove the knife
block and widen the island holes with a 1/4"-dia. bit.
Expand the holes with a 1 1/32"-dia. bit for the threaded
inserts. Install the nuts and attach the knife block.
Removable Wine Rack
First cut the sides, front and back pieces. Then, using a compass,
mark the curved edges for wine bottles. Cut the openings and
sand the edges. Roundover the parts with a 3/8"-rad. bit
in a table-mounted router.
Next, rabbet the corner joints
and cut notches for the bottom slats. Cut the slats 1/16"
longer than the dimensions for sanding. Glue and clamp the rack
together and set it aside to dry. Later, install the wine rack
between the two rack stretchers with glue and counterbored #8
x 1 1/4" screws.
Finishing Up
Remove the top, knife block, drawer and wine rack before finishing.
Apply three coats of polyurethane to the base and two coats
of 100 per cent pure tung oil on the top. Make sure the finish
is safe for contact with food. Some tung oils have dangerous
polymers and other additives. Pure tung oil is food safe.
Leaving the top unfinished is
an option, too. According to a University of Wisconsin-Madison
study, bare wood surfaces killed 99.9% of typical food-borne
bacteria placed on it within three minutes, even without washing.
Plastic or fully-sealed wood surfaces were shown to harbour
bacteria for much longer. Even a thorough washing in hot, soapy
water failed to kill all harmful bacteria.
Reassemble the island and add
heavy-duty casters to the legs. Make sure the casters can support
at least 50 lbs. each.
Before installing the drawer,
rub some candle wax onto the runners to prevent binding. Reapply
periodically to keep the drawer sliding smoothly. Add a cleat
underneath the top to stop the drawer from pulling out too far.
|
| You
will need: |
| For
the top |
Material |
Size |
Qty. |
| Top |
maple |
2"
x 20" x 34" |
1 |
| End
caps |
maple |
1
1/2" x 2" x 20" |
2 |
| Rod
plugs |
maple
dowel |
1"
dia. x 1" |
8 |
| Threaded
top rods |
plated
steel |
3/8"
dia. x 19" |
4 |
| Nuts |
plated
steel |
3/8"
dia. |
8 |
| Flat
washers |
plated
steel |
3/8"
dia. |
8 |
| For
the base |
| Legs |
maple |
2"
x 2" x 32" |
4 |
| End
skirts |
maple |
3/4"
x 4" x 16" |
2 |
| Back
skirt |
maple |
3/4"
x 4" x 31" |
1 |
| Knife
block brace |
maple |
3/4"
x 1 1/2" x 16" |
1 |
| Crossbraces |
maple |
1"
x 2" x 18" |
4 |
| Shelf
slats |
maple |
1"
x 1 1/2" x 36" |
7 |
| Drawer
runner cleats |
maple |
7/8"
x 1 1/2" x 14" |
2 |
| Drawer
runners |
aluminum
angle |
3/4"
x 3/4" x 14" |
2 |
| Casters |
heavy-duty,
rubber-edged |
4 |
| For
the drawer |
| Drawer
front |
maple |
3/4"
x 4" x 29" |
1 |
| Drawer
sides |
maple |
3/4"
x 4" x 16 5/8" |
2 |
| Drawer
back |
maple |
3/4"
x 3 1/2" x 28" |
1 |
| Drawer
bottom |
plywood |
1/4"
x 16 1/4" x 28" |
1 |
| Stop
block cleat |
maple |
1/2"
x 1" x 4" |
1 |
| Drawer
pull |
brass |
Lee
Valley 01A44.11 |
1 |
| For
the knife block |
| Block
strips |
maple |
2"
x 5" x 8" |
5 |
| Knockdown
bolts |
50
mm Lee Valley 00N16.50 |
3 |
| Threaded
inserts |
20
mm Lee Valley 00N11.20 |
3 |
| For
the wine rack |
| Rack
slats |
maple |
3/4"
x 1 1/2" x 36" |
2 |
| Rack
front/back |
maple |
3/4"
x 3" x 19" |
2 |
| Rack
sides |
maple |
3/4"
x 3" x 9" |
2 |
| Rack
bottom slats |
maple |
1"
x 3/4" x 19" |
4 |
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