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by
Rick Campbell
photos: Roger Yip
illustration by Len Churchill |
BOAT-SHAPED BAR (part 3) |
Begin by installing one of the side strips that touches the
back panel. Start fastening it at the bow and tack it to the
edge of the bulkheads and back panel as you progress downward.
These strips are longer than necessary to allow for a slight
overhang at the bow and stern.
After you’ve attached all three strips to one side, grab
a handsaw and trim the excess material from the ends before
repeating the entire process on the opposing side. Don’t
be concerned if there’s a gap where the two sides meet
at the bow. You’ll cover this with nose trim. To make
this trim, cut out the two 1 1/2"-wide trim strips from
1/4"-thick material and bevel the top edges to form a corner
where the two pieces meet. After gluing the strips in place,
perform a nose job by rounding over the sharp point with a sanding
block, creating a softer, slightly weathered appearance.
All the Trimmings
The next task is to build up the top edges of the gunwales (the
thick ridge along the top edge of each side) by adding several
layers of 3/4"-wide x 1/4"-thick trim strips. For
this job, you’ll need to gather as many small clamps as
you can find around the shop. Also, install only one strip at
a time to make the job more manageable.
To apply the strips, coat one side with glue, then work from
bow to stern as you clamp the trim to the gunwale. Check for
gaps and make sure the outside edges are aligned before allowing
the glue to dry. Apply one layer to the outside and two more
following the interior curve. The strips start from the top
bulkhead on the inside and one strip goes from the nose trim
on the exterior. Like the side panels, the strips are longer
than needed. Simply saw off the excess at the stern when you’re
done. After the last strip is applied, sand the outside faces
of the lamination and roundover the corners.
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| Ships
Ahoy! The bar’s gunwale is made from strips
that hug the side panel and the bow is topped with
a decorative plate |
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With the gunwale complete, make the decorative bow plate that
covers the bow structure. Cut out a blank from 1/2"-thick
material, trace the shape of the bow to lay out the sides, and
use the grid diagram in the plans to outline the design for
the decorative bottom edge. Cut out the shape on your bandsaw,
sand and roundover the top edges with a router spinning a 1/4"-radius
bit. After you glue the plate in place, sand the sides to blend
the edges of the cap with the outside of the gunwale trim.
Open and Shut
With the basic structure of the boat bar complete, you’re
ready to add doors to the lower compartment. These are simple
frames that capture floating solid-wood interior panels. Start
by edge-gluing 1/4"-thick material to make the panels.
This is one more opportunity to practise the resawing techniques
below.
Next, cut out the vertical stiles and horizontal rails. Mill
1/2"-deep x 1/4"-wide grooves along the inside edges
to receive the panels. Don’t change the set-up—you
also need to make slots of the same size on the ends of the
horizontal rails. These receive wood splines that reinforce
the corner joints. Cut out some splines from scrap and you’re
ready to assemble the doors. When you do, apply glue to the
end of the rails and both sides of the splines, but keep the
panel slots dry. The panels need to float freely in grooves
to allow for seasonal expansion and contraction.
Install the panels and bring the frame members together with
splines and clamps. Check for square before setting the doors
aside to dry. I used some decorative brass hinges to mount the
doors and found decorative brass dock cleats at my local building
centre to use as door handles.
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1. Building the bulkheads |
2. Strenghtning the structure | 3.
Adding doors and compartments | 4.
Accessorizing the bar |
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