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by
Paul Lewis
photos: Roger Yip
illustration by Len Churchill |
ADIRONDACK REVISITED (part 2) |
Coming
Together
Assembly starts with the main legs, front legs and seat slats.
Predrill and countersink all the screw holes to prevent splitting.
Attach the rearmost seat slat (the one that the back slats attach
to) into the pockets on the main legs by using a couple of #8
x 13/4" screws and a weatherproof adhesive. I like Type
II PVA glue, but a polyurethane glue would work well too. Just
be sure to dampen the mating surfaces prior to assembly if you
are using polyurethane glue. It needs a bit of moisture to cure
properly.
Attach the next seat slat to the main legs. Continue assembly
by positioning and attaching the front legs. Secure them with
screws through the inside faces to avoid having visible fasteners
on the outside. The angle cut on the back of the main legs helps
to locate the correct spot for the front legs. Don’t forget
that the legs (and arms) are offset and non-symmetrical.
Finally, fasten the arm blocks to the top of the arm braces
and then attach the arm braces to the front legs by driving
screws through the inside faces of the legs.
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| Shapely
style: use a router to round off the edges of all
your parts. If you plan to make more than one chair,
it’s a good idea to make plywood templates
for all the curved parts, such as the arm brace. |
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Take your Time
The next few assembly steps are a bit tricky because the parts
have to hang in mid-air before you join them together. It’s
important to follow the correct assembly procedure so that everything
lines up properly.
Start by attaching the bottom end of the back slats to the rear
seat slat. I like to measure and mark each screw location carefully
when they’ll be visible in the final project. This leads
to a more pleasing look in the end.
It’s easier to attach the rest of the seat slats now,
rather than when the arms are in the way. The slats are best
spaced by eye, since the undulating surface of the main legs
makes using a fixed space difficult. Lay out all the remaining
seat slats now. Make sure to leave a gap between the back’s
slats and last seat slat to allow water and debris to fall through
and not get trapped. When you’re happy with part positioning,
screw all the slats in place.
Next, rip a 73º bevel on the forward-facing edge of the
back arm brace. That’s 17º from square on your tablesaw
bevel scale. Attach the arms to this part by driving screws
up from underneath. Position the arm brace and arm assembly
so the arms rest roughly in the correct position on the arm
supports. Adjust the part positioning to get the arms level
and the back brace neatly intersecting with the back slats.
Use a couple of spring clamps at the union between the arms
and arm supports to hold them in position as you experiment.
When the joints fit well, make the connection permanent with
screws and glue. The arm blocks allow the screws to be driven
in from underneath, so there are no visible fasteners on the
surface of the arm to collect water. When driving the screws
through the faces of the back slats into the back arm brace,
make sure you set them at an angle that corresponds to the angle
of the back.
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1. What's in the design? |
2. Assembling the project |
3. Tools and materials you will need |
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