Assembly
The mat is held together with a brass rod that slides through brass washers that separate each segment. Cut the brass rod to rough lengths of 18" with a hacksaw. Clamp each rod firmly in a vice, with the end sticking up about 1/4". Place a 1/4" washer over the end of the rod and peen it over with a hammer until the rod has mushroomed enough to stop the washer from coming off.
Due to slight inconsistencies in the thickness of the washers, I found that each rod must be marked for final cutting in a specific position while the mat is temporarily assembled. Thread the rods through the segments with a single washer on each end and two washers between each segment. With all the segments united, mark the rod for cutting so that 1/8" extends beyond the side of the mat. Remove the rods, then trim the excess brass with a hacksaw leaving a square end.
Reinsert the rod with the washers in place and peen the protruding end to secure the segments. This is best accomplished with the mat resting on-edge against a solid surface like a concrete floor. The segments should be tight enough to prohibit movement back and forth on the rod, yet loose enough to allow the mat to flex.
I finished my mat with three coats of Circa 1850 Tung'n Teak Oil for protection from the elements. Film-forming finishes won't dry on teak because of the oils in the wood.
| You Will Need | |||
| Mat segments | hardwood | 1" x 1 1/2" x 5 1/2" | 50 |
| Connection rods * | brass | .188" dia. x 18" | 8 |
| Washers | brass | 1/4" inside dia. | 176 |
| * Rod is available at metal suppliers and most home centres | |||
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