Trim work
High-tech trim The trim on this garage needed replacing, so I opted for PVC exterior trim from Royal Mouldings. I made up corner boards and window and door casing from lengths of 1x6 flat stock. I also used some PVC beadboard to dress up the dilapidated-looking roof soffits and overhangs. The PVC material comes preprimed and works with regular woodworking tools. It is rot-proof, perfectly straight and clear, and takes fasteners and paint well.
Overhang installation The PVC trim comes in several profiles and lengths. I glued and screwed a plywood backer over the original tongue-and-groove roof overhangs and soffits. Then I nailed up short lengths of PVC beadboard for a traditional look. I covered the edges with a simple trim strip. (Vents aren't required for this unheated building.)
Strong joints The PVC material can be joined together with PVC cement, making strong, weatherproof joints. You can also use polyurethane construction adhesive to stick the trim to other surfaces, such as wood or concrete.
The cutting edge If you need to add a profile detail, the trim boards can be routed, just like lumber, with sharply defined edges. Just make sure that you don't hesitate with power tools: pausing too long at one spot will melt the material.
Increasing the depth of cut over several swift passes works better than one heavy cut. If you cut into the cellular core of the material, you simply need to prime the area before painting.
The end result:
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