Feet first
Cut the two feet to length with a chop saw, then mark out the curved bottom edge. To lay out a smooth curve, drive a couple of nails into the face of each board, 3 1/2" from each end. Using these nails as stops, bend a thin strip of wood up to a mark 1 1/2" from the edge, centred on the board. Run a pencil along the bent strip to mark the curve. Cut along the curved line using a bandsaw or handheld jigsaw, and smooth the edge with a stationary spindle sander or handheld belt sander spinning a 150-grit abrasive.
Next, lay out and cut the notches that will receive the side and middle joists according to the locations shown on the plans. I used a handsaw to make the vertical cuts, then I knocked the waste free with a hammer. Cedar splits easily along the grain, but any rough edges will be hidden when the joint is assembled later. Repeat the process for the other foot.
Move on to the joists. Start by cutting the three pieces of 2x6 cedar to length. Next, make a template of the decorative end pattern. Draw the profile onto a sheet of 1/4"-thick plywood. To create the pattern, you can use the grid diagram in the plans or you can download and print a full-size version from our website.
Cut out the profile using a bandsaw or jigsaw, then sand the edges smooth. This plywood template makes it easy to transfer the profile to the ends of all three joists. Cut the ends to shape and sand all edges smooth. Next, mark and cut notches on the joists as you did for the feet.
Hidden fasteners
It would be faster and easier to secure deck boards with screws driven down from the top, but invisible fastening looks much nicer, so it's well worth the extra trouble, especially for such a small project. Start by sawing a 1"-wide strip off the top edge of both side joists. Dry-fit the side joists and the feet together, then place the freshly sawn 1" strips back on top of the joists. Hold these temporarily in place with a couple strips of masking tape. Next, cut your deck boards from 5/4 stock, making each one 2 1/2" wide by 24" long. Roundover all edges with sandpaper.
Arrange the deck boards on top of the joists using 1/2"-wide scraps as spacers. Once you're happy with the positioning, carefully add a drop of weatherproof glue to each joint between your deck board and the top strips of the joist material. Let the glue dry, then flip the assembly over to access the underside.
Next, predrill and drive a 1 3/4"-long deck screw through the strips into the underside of each deck board. Later, you'll glue the strips back on top of the joists they were cut from, but first you need to complete a few modifications to the middle joist.
Saw 1/8" off the top edge of the middle joist. This compensates for the wood you removed from the outer joists. Next, mill a 3/4"-wide x 4 1/2"-long x 2"-deep mortise on the top edge of the middle joist to receive the upright that will hold the shower pipe. I used a 3/4"-diameter Forstner bit in a drillpress and bored a series of overlapping holes, 2" deep. Turn these into a clean mortise using a sharp chisel. Glue the middle joist to the feet and side joist assembly.
Spread glue on the top edges of the side joists and install the deck board and strip assembly back onto the outer joists, adding several screws between the deck slats.
Add the upright
Cut the blank for the upright to length. Lay out the curved top portion of the upright and cut it out using a bandsaw, then smooth the edges using a stationary spindle sander. Next, mill a 3/4"-wide x 4 1/2"-long x 2"-deep tenon on the end of the upright. I used a dado blade on my tablesaw for this work, but a handsaw and chisel would work well too. As you work, test-fit the tenon into the mortise on the middle joist and pare it down with a rasp or chisel until it fits snugly. Complete the connection with weatherproof glue. You'll need to be creative while pulling this joint together because of the curved shape. I clamped a small scrap block on each side of the upright, creating ledges for clamping to the bottom edge of the middle joist. To complete the woodworking portion of this project, screw and glue the four small side blocks onto the feet on either side of the middle joist. These strengthen the middle joist and reduce side-to-side movement of the upright.
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