| You will need: | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Parts | Material | Size | Qty |
| Rim plies | ash | 1/8" x 1" x 72" | at least 5 |
| Bottom panel | ash | 1/2" x 20" x 20" | 1 |
| Base | ash | 1/2" x 13" x 13" | 1 |
| Lazy Susan bearing | 9" dia. Lee Valley K01.06 | 1 | |
| Bending form panels | MDF | 3/4" x 19" x 19" | 2 |
| Steaming form panel | MDF | 3/4" x 10" x 20" | 1 |
Router-cut circles
The first time I used a router to cut a circle I was building an outdoor table. The project instructions stated that the cedar slats for the top be left long and trimmed to their final circular shape using a router with an oversized baseplate. That slightly vague direction and a fuzzy photo of the builder following his router around the tabletop prompted me to attach a crude extension to my router and plunge right in. The resulting circle was so pristine, so mathematical and so effortlessly executed that I vowed that day never again to cut a circle with a saw, be it band or jig. There's a couple of things to remember when using a router to cut circles: use a sturdy jig with a securely fastened pivot point (plans for Gary Walchuk's "Circle-Cutting Jig" are on page 34): cut with a 1/2"-dia. straight bit, any smaller and you risk the bit flexing on deeper cuts, any bigger and you'll be removing more material than necessary. Take only 1/4" bite per pass, and finally, make sure the offcut is supported as it is released during the final pass. While you are in jig-building mode take the time to make a second longer arm for really big circles, when it comes time to make that round table that seats 10 you'll be glad you did. --Paul Lewis
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